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I was laying in bed this morning, the wee early morning hours, you know, when you are trying to wake up, but you still are in those twilight minutes still not quite awake, in that dreamy state wondering if you are in the real world, or off in some other alien world? And I heard one of the parrots I’m rehabbing off in the distance…going on and on and on…saying things I had never heard it say before, and it got me thinking, “Who did this bird live with in its past life?”, “What kind of life did this bird have?”, “How many caregivers has this bird been through?”, all of these questions running through my mind waking me up at the speed of the sound that was coming out of the parrot.
If you have a bird that’s older than a couple of years, if you have a bird that’s lived with anyone other than you, if you have a rescue bird, chances are your bird has a vocabulary tucked away deep inside its memory, and an emotional memory to go with it, that’s adding to the very behavior you are trying to understand and correct.
I began understanding some things about this bird while I lay there in bed listening to the very articulate sounds being vocalized through its beak. I began understanding that at one time it was loved very deeply and completely by someone. I mean I‘ve heard this bird utter full sentences before, but they were always relatively harsh and punishing sentences like, “Knock it off!” and “Stop it!” This led me to believe that its past owner didn’t treat it very well, or that at minimum there was someone or some other living creature in the house that either didn’t behave very nicely or the owner just wasn’t a very pleasant person to live with.
But this morning was different. The words flowing out the bird’s beak this morning were pleasant and loving, phrases of love that I had never heard before. Had this bird been with more than one caregiver in its life? Or was this bird just now telling me that it lived in a home where there were two people in the same house? Or, even, did the caregiver have two sides to their personality?
Who knows? No one will ever know. But one thing is for sure, at some point in time there was someone that did absolutely love this bird. I heard the words, “Give me a kiss. Kiss, kiss. Give me kiss. Don’t bite. Give me a kiss.” Repeated over and over for about fifteen minutes, this bird was obviously having real time flashbacks of its previous caregiver.
And all of this leads me to this, for all of us that have birds that have been rehomed once, twice or a number of times, we will never, ever know just what that bird has experienced, the good or the bad. That bird holds in its permanent memory bank all of the experiences, the happy times, the bad times, the close personal bonds, the traumatic events, of its deeply personal life. For any of us to think we can take a bird into our home and “make it all okay” in just a few, short months, we are only fooling ourselves.
Even if we think we can employ behavior modification and change years of molded behavior in just a few short months, we are probably lying to ourselves unless we get a really close bond established with the bird in question. And establishing that bond would mean that we are creating some kind of emotional link between us and the bird, a trust, a kinship. We can’t just look at behavior modification as a textbook, step-by-step approach in which we are proceeding to make analytical adjustments to a birds behavior and environments without taking into consideration the bird’s emotions, how they feel about what it is we are wanting them to do, or not do. Behind every action they must have an emotional reason for doing it, or not doing it, they must have an emotional connection with the behavior, not just an instinctual need that has to be fulfilled. Why else does this bird that I’m rehabbing prefer to sit on the side of the cage that is nearest to my desk where I sit and write all day long? Especially when its food bowl is on the other side of the cage? It only goes over to the food bowl when its hungry and has the need to feed its hunger and then it immediately returns to the side of the cage that nearest to me. This was not the case when the bird first moved in with me. This is an emotional bond that grew as time has passed. This bird seeks closeness, a connection with me that it does not get from sitting on the opposite side of the cage.
Yes, these exotic birds are emotional creatures and we must begin to interact with them in this manner. We must begin to realize that they cannot be exchanged numerous times between homes, from countless caregivers and be expected to thrive without any emotional damage. We get ourselves preoccupied on behavior modification when the real truth of the matter is that these birds, that are extremely complex creatures, have deep-seated emotions. If we don’t think they do, spend one hour with a Moluccan Cockatoo and tell me they don’t have emotions. They need not only behavior modification, they need a lot of love to go along with the behavior modification we are employing.
Maybe we don’t have “it” all “right” just yet. Maybe behavior modification isn’t the only key ingredient here when it comes to understanding our companion birds, maybe we need to be taking a closer look at “emotional intelligence” when it comes to these exotic companion birds.
What is “emotional intelligence”? It is defined by John D. Mayer of the University of New Hampshire, and “et al” as “an ability to recognize the meanings of emotion and their relationships, and to reason and problem-solve on the basis of them. Emotional intelligence is involved in the capacity to perceive emotions, assimilate emotion-related feelings, understand the information of those emotions, and manage them” as stated in their article Emotional Intelligence Meets Traditional Standards for an Intelligence, Copyright 2000 Elsevier Science Inc. Obviously they were not studying “EQ” and how it pertains to parrots when they were writing their article, so I am really going out on my own limb here. Are exotic birds able to “manage their own emotions”? We can only guess at this point in time.
And I’m certainly not saying to throw out the book on behavior modification because there is a lot to be learned by our birds’ actions. But behavior modification only tells us a small portion about their overall intelligence, when adding their emotions to the mix could help complete the total picture.
But listening to this bird this morning sparked something inside of me that I had not thought about to any great degree before…their emotional intelligence. Now don’t get me wrong, I always interact with my birds on an emotional level because I’m a fairly emotional person. But I had not given much thought to their emotional imprint before.
We teach by repetitive action and by the reward system. But what would happen if we tapped into their emotions? This is something we have not yet learned to do. In fact, when breeding/mating season comes around, a highly instinctive and emotional time of season, we go out of our way to discourage it because it brings out some very unwelcomed behavior. Now I’m not saying we need to encourage this behavior, I’m only using this as an example of a type of behavior, a type of “emotional behavior” if you will, that our birds display.
So what if we begin taking notice of other times they display emotional behavior? Maybe this is difficult for many of us because we are not yet comfortable with our own emotions…
But I have noticed that this bird I am rehabbing laughs when I laugh. Is it actually laughing along with me? Or is it just copying me? I have also noticed that when emotions are not so light in my home, when things are tense, this bird takes up a corner in the back of its cage. Is it trying to tell me that it “feels” the tense vibrations in the air? When I have music on and I am singing along with the music and my heart feels light, this bird sings along with me. Does the bird feel light-hearted as well?
I honestly don’t think I have a “special” bird on my hands here, other than I believe that all birds are special in their own right. Take “Alex the African Grey” for example. He was diligently worked with and groomed. But honestly, he could have been any African Grey. No, I think just about any of our exotic companion parrots are able to feel these emotions and express them too.
The short point of my post is this, I’m going to begin interacting with my feathered companions on a deeper emotional level. I have always respected them, talked to them, caressed them and shown them my utmost love and respect with care and attention. But from here on out I’m going to attempt to connect with them on a deep emotional level as if they understand my emotions, not as though I understand them. I am not going to approach them as the all-knowing one, because the fact of the matter is, I don’t know what they have in their past, I don’t know what they remember, I don’t know what they have experienced, I just don’t know.
My personal opinion on all of this is this, until we begin to interact with our exotic companion birds on an emotional level we are missing out on a huge part of the relationship we could be experiencing with them. Many of us “poo poo” animal communicators, but I think it may be time we give them some credit. Maybe all they are really doing is tapping in to the emotions of the animals. And if that’s what is happening in animal communication, just tapping in to the emotions of animals, then all of us that aren’t doing that need to take a huge step back and ask ourselves why we are so uncomfortable with our own emotions that we are missing out on communicating with the very animals we say we would do anything to save…seriously, we need to get in touch with our emotions if it will make our birds’ lives better.
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Machelle Pacion / The BEST Bird Food / BirD-elicious! / Passion Tree House LLC © 2012 All Rights Reserved
*Information supplied by The BEST Bird Food or any of its contributors, associates, et al, does not intend to diagnose, treat or cure any symptom, illness or disease. Any information provided is strictly for the purpose of “sharing” resources. Should a reader decide to use any such information they do so at their own risk and holds author(s) and associates, et al, of The BEST Bird Food blog harmless in any and all legal matters concerning their health and the health of their family and/or friends and/or colleagues who they may share the information with as well as all of their pets and/or livestock whom they may practice the information upon.
A nationally known and recognized bird magazine shared a smoothie recipe for our companion birds recently. It was a good recipe I have to admit. But I came up with one that would do what, well smoothies are supposed to do, rehabilitate the natural digestive enzymes. So I thought I may as well share it with all of my readers!
I don’t believe in using cow’s milk yogurt because of the amount of lactose and casein it contains. It is common knowledge that lactose is virtually indigestible for any human older than a young toddler because we don’t produce lactase-phlorizin hydrolase, or LPH, the digestive enzyme necessary to metabolize lactose, neither do birds.
And casein is a glue-like substance that is literally used to make the desk glue we use to bind paper and other products together in our schools and offices.
Why would anyone want to feed our companion birds yogurt that contains high levels of these two ingredients? I wouldn’t.
Which brings me to the point, DO NOT feed your bird yogurt, or any dairy product for that matter, unless you absolutely NEED to rebuild the intestinal flora in a hurry. If you just want to support the intestinal flora, use this recipe WITHOUT the yogurt all together.
So this is where “goat’s milk” yogurt comes in. It doesn’t contain high levels of either of these ingredients. In fact the lactose in goat’s milk is much more gut-friendly lactose than cow’s milk lactose and goat’s milk only contains only a slight amount of measurable casein. This is why goat’s milk is so easily digested over cow’s milk for those who cannot drink cow’s milk.
So now that I have explained my use of goat’s milk yogurt, let me get on with the rest of the recipe.
Mango. This fruit is exceptionally high in both the essential amino acid Lysine, one the main building blocks of protein and well as essential fatty acids.
Papaya. This fruit is exceptionally high in digestive enzymes, one of the main reasons for a smoothie in the first place.
Blueberries. Exceptionally high in anti-oxidants.
Lemon or Red Grapefruit. High in Vitamin C which will aid as an anti-oxidant, anti-histamine and have an overall calming effect on the mood of your bird.
Flax seed oil. Exceptionally high in Omega 3 fatty acids which will help with heart health, brain function, has an overall calming effect and aids in the conditioning of skin, feathers, talons and beak.
Always use ORGANIC. Why? Fruits, and especially berries have the most amount of pesticides used on them than any other food stuff. And if you are using dried fruits be sure to use the “unsulfured” version. How will you know? The sulfured version is always bright like it was just picked off the tree. The truly organic and natural version will be dark and, well, ugly. LOL.
*There is no ice to this recipe because our birds do not need to consume something so cold, they are extremely warm-blooded creatures.
Quantities:
♥ Goat’s Milk Yogurt: 1 Tblsp.
♥ Mango: 1/4 cup
♥ Papaya: 1 Tblsp.
♥ Blueberries: 1 Tblsp.
♥ Lemon or Red Grapefruit (Meat only): Apprx 1/2 to 1 Tsp.
♥ Flax Seed Oil (Not high Lignin)(Keep refrigerated) 1/16 Tsp.
Keep refrigerated or in freezer. Freezing will NOT kill the enzymes.
I suggest allowing warming to almost room temperature before feeding.
May feed in daily increments over 5-7 day period.
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Machelle Pacion / The BEST Bird Food / BirD-elicious! / Passion Tree House LLC © 2012 All Rights Reserved
*Information supplied by The BEST Bird Food or any of its contributors, associates, et al, does not intend to diagnose, treat or cure any symptom, illness or disease. Any information provided is strictly for the purpose of “sharing” resources. Should a reader decide to use any such information they do so at their own risk and holds author(s) and associates, et al, of The BEST Bird Food blog harmless in any and all legal matters concerning their health and the health of their family and/or friends and/or colleagues who they may share the information with as well as all of their pets and/or livestock whom they may practice the information upon.
We often hear that getting enough fiber into our human diet is vital to the prevention of colon cancer as well as just good overall health. Recent research indicates that the right kind of fiber in our human diet probably has an effect on lowering blood cholesterol levels as well, and may even prevent or help cure diabetes in some cases. But dietary fiber is largely indigestible for humans. If it is indigestible how does it do its work to prevent or help cure illness and/or disease?
There are two main categories of dietary fiber and one less recognized category that medical science believes may be the answer to those suffering from diabetes.
But what does all of this research mean for our exotic companion birds? If fiber is indigestible for us, how much more indigestible is it for our birds who have no teeth and very little to no digestive enzymes in their mouth such as “amylase” (aka ptyalin), therefore there is no pre-digestion through mastication that ever takes place in order to begin breaking down tough fiber. Many of their digestive enzymes don’t show up in their digestive tract until the presence of their small intestines.
How do we translate this information to a parrot’s digestive tract? After all, their digestive tract is much shorter than ours which doesn’t allow for a long process of digestion to occur. And even after entering their digestive tract, once finished with the journey through the large intestine there is no cecum like other mammals have to finish the breaking down and fermenting of fiber known as “cellulose”. This places added strain on the liver and pancreas requiring an additional amount of the digestive enzyme “amylase” to complete the breaking down process of dietary fibers. If the fiber introduced into the system in the first place, on a continuous basis, is “too tough” for the parrot’s digestive tract to break down, the liver and pancreas will over-produce amylase on a regular basis and could cause a health problem to ensue such as insulin resistance leading to diabetes and even fatty liver disease.
I began thinking about this when I performed my research for the post on fatty liver disease and how it could be partially caused by our overfeeding of starches. And I began thinking that if starch is considered to be a dietary fiber, which it is, because it is a carbohydrate consisting of multi-units of monosaccharides strung together to make up long-chain bonds known as polysaccharides rendering it to be a “insoluble dietary fiber”, and if parrots have difficulty digesting starches, then exactly what kind of dietary fiber do parrots need in their diet that they can digest fairly quickly to meet their high metabolism requirements? So I went on a search to find out. And this is what I have learned thus far.
There are two main categories of dietary fiber, “soluble” and “insoluble”. And then there is a third, less-recognized category of fiber known as “resistant starch”. This is an interesting category because it is the category of fiber we see most often supplied as the most abundant and primary ingredient in our commercial bird foods. I will talk about this fiber a little later on.
Soluble dietary fiber is water soluble and binds with gut matter to remove toxic substances from the gut. Examples of soluble fiber are pectin found in fruit, as well as beta-glucan found in grains, gums found in grains, legumes, seeds and seaweed, and arabinose (pectinose, a monosaccharide)found in legumes and pulses (but let’s pay close attention because these are not the only type of dietary fiber found in these food stuffs).
Insoluble dietary fiber is a natural laxative and includes, but is not limited to, cellulose and lignin which occur in whole grains and rarely in seed, and hemicelluloses (partly soluble) found primarily in whole grains, nuts, seed, and vegetables, and to a lesser extent in fruit. The insoluble parts are normally on the outer shells, husks, or skins of these items. What we need to understand about insoluble dietary fiber in our exotic companion birds’ diets is that it is a major source of intestinal inflammation and therefore it is also a major cause of malnutrition as well as vitamin and mineral deficiencies.
Although I am very concerned about the overuse of insoluble fiber in our companion birds’ diet, the last category of fiber, “resistant starch” is the category I am probably most concerned about regarding the formulation of our companion birds’ commercial diets because it is the kind of fiber most prevalent in our birds’ diets.
What happens when these “resistant starches” are introduced into the digestive tract is what is of great concern to the companion bird. Because they are so resistant to digestive enzymes they literally sit in the digestive tract waiting to be digested where they begin to ferment and raise the bacteria to an unhealthy level for an exotic bird’s digestive tract. Since parrots are not animals that are meant to ferment their foods, not only does this weigh them down and make them incapable to take to flight, but the sugars in these foods begin to store in the liver and kidneys raising the insulin produced by the pancreas, the organ that produces the amylase that attempts to help to digest these starches. When the food cannot be easily broken down quickly into useable energy, the sugars from these starches gets turned into fat that gets stored first in the liver and kidneys and then alas in adipose fat tissue throughout the body.
While it is true that our exotic birds, much like us, need a diet high in fiber, they need the right kind of fiber for their own unique digestive tract, and feeding them the same kind of fiber that we need to keep our system running smooth will most likely cause their internal organs added and unneeded stress leading to eventual disorder and even disease.
When we take a good, long and hard look at what our parrots naturally consume in their wild habitat we see they consume mostly, berries, fruit, (pectin); with a limited amount of seed added in (gums); then add to that nuts and tender young leaves and herbs (hemicelluloses). What do all of these individual foods have in common? They contain soluble or partly soluble dietary fiber.
Pectins, as noted above are water soluble dietary fibers that require very little energy to metabolize. Pectins are highest in berries and fruits. Because pectin is a monosaccharide, a simple carbohydrate, it is easily and quickly metabolized allowing a bird to make use of it as a readily available energy source. This is probably why birds consume so many berries and fruits in the wild. Taking a closer look in the overall nutrition berries provide we find a complete list of natural fatty acids and amino acids, as well as anti-oxidants and phyto-nutrients providing an abundance of nutritional support, actually fairly balanced all on their own.
Seed is another favorite food stuff of wild birds, you don’t have to wonder about this, you know by experience that your own companion bird absolutely loves seed! The fiber in the seed germ, the part our bird will consume after they break open the outer shell, is “gum” fiber. It is considered a partly water soluble fiber meaning that it does contain some amount of insoluble fiber so it’s a little more difficult to metabolize, it takes a little slower to move through the digestive system, than the more simple carbohydrate, single unit monosaccharides. These are considered polysaccharides which mean they have an almost starchy consistency to their fibrous content. So these foodstuffs need to be fed in limited quantities, but they do need to be fed because they contain essential fatty acids as well as vitamins and minerals necessary to the overall health and nutrition of an exotic bird’s well-being.
Birds will spend much of their time scouting out nuts too, and these provide not only rich fatty acids essential to the provision of healthy skin and organ function, but also a reliable energy source in the form of complex carbohydrates, partly soluble dietary fiber known as hemicelluloses. Again these are partly soluble dietary fibers that require only a moderate amount of time to be metabolized and utilized as an energy source. And once more nuts have an almost starchy consistency to their fiber content which places them lower on the food list in the order of most to least favorable foods to feed our companion birds.
And finally wild exotic birds would search out young tender grasses and herbs to consume in the wild and those are in the classification of hemicelluloses. These are in the same dietary classification as nuts.
When we look at their natural wild diet from this standpoint it is very easy to understand their fiber intake is much different than the optimum fiber intake advised for human consumption which consists of more variety that includes dense matter. An exotic bird’s dietary fiber intake needs to consist primarily of fiber that is highly water soluble, like those of fruit pectin, easily and quickly broken down early in the digestion process with a little added gum (seed) and hemicelluloses (nuts and grass/herb) fibers for good measure that require a little longer to digest and metabolize. But they do not need food stuffs that sit in their gut for extended periods of time, weighing them down and fermenting causing an over-abundance of insulin to be produced causing strain on the liver, kidneys and pancreas, and they don’t need added fat for insulation from the elements, they have feathers to insulate them from the elements.
Adding too many grains, legumes and/or vegetables to our companion birds’ diets will produce too much bulk in the way of insoluble and partly soluble fiber in our birds’ digestive tract. Unfortunately this is what many of us have been doing unknowingly for many years in our efforts to feed a wholesome and fresh diet to our birds. It’s perfectly understandable, and even admirable, that we have done this in our attempt to feed a better whole food diet, a far cry from a highly processed, dead and dry diet. I commend anyone who is willing to take the time to prepare fresh, whole foods for their companion birds on a daily basis!
Now all we need to do is fine tune the ingredients we are feeding to our birds, to replicate as close as possible, the nutrients they would consume in the wild, from the type of raw amino acids, fatty acids, minerals, vitamins, to carbohydrates all the way down to their sub-class of dietary fibers.
*This information may not necessarily pertain to birds already suffering from diabetes. They do not need a diet that allows for the quick metabolism of carbohydrates. Their system requires a much slower rate of metabolism of sugars. I will be writing a post about exotic birds and their plight suffering with diabetes later on.
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I’ll be discussing the importance of dietary fiber in more detail in my upcoming book, so be sure to stay tuned to learn how, when and where I’ll be publishing my first volume of avian nutritional information!
Sign up to our blog so you will be sure to receive more educational articles like this one! Just return to our home page at http://TheBestBirdFood.com and click on “Sign Me UP” in the upper right hand corner of the blog!
Be sure to visit our “forum” on Facebook: https://www.facebook.com/pages/Parrots-The-BEST-Bird-Food/169623509768097
We now operate a National Exotic Bird Rescue & Sanctuary Listing Service located at: https://www.facebook.com/pages/All-State-Exotic-Parrot-Bird-Rescue-Sanctuary-Listings/163115600475472
Machelle Pacion / The BEST Bird Food / BirD-elicious! / Passion Tree House LLC © 2012 All Rights Reserved
*Information supplied by The BEST Bird Food or any of its contributors, associates, et al, does not intend to diagnose, treat or cure any symptom, illness or disease. Any information provided is strictly for the purpose of “sharing” resources. Should a reader decide to use any such information they do so at their own risk and holds author(s) and associates, et al, of The BEST Bird Food blog harmless in any and all legal matters concerning their health and the health of their family and/or friends and/or colleagues who they may share the information with as well as all of their pets and/or livestock whom they may practice the information upon.
Foods such as potatoes, yams, rice, corn, wheat and other grains as well as legumes such as peas, lentils and beans contain multi-unit carbohydrate polysaccharides known as starch and glycogen. These are termed “storage polysaccharides” because they are stored in the liver and slowly metabolize into the blood as useable sugars as the body needs them for energy reserves. However, if the body is over-supplied with these sugars, and cannot utilize the stored energy fast enough, the sugar turns into fat and is deposited in various places within the body, often within the liver itself.
As stated above, the accumulation and decomposition of glycogen in the liver of humans and higher animals is a means of controlling the glycogen level in the blood which in turn is used for energy. But what about an animal who’s body is not designed to make use of starches? Where does the starch and glycogen go?
We must take a long and hard look at what our exotic companion birds would consume in their natural habitats, and corn, wheat, rice and many other grains, vegetables and legumes that contain starch are not normally found in their native lands. If those foodstuffs are now there, they are there only because humans have invaded those lands and planted crops, as a result the wild birds are now consuming those foods because their natural foods are beginning to disappear, in other words they are consuming those foods out of sheer survival because this invasion of planted crops is causing the natural food stuffs to face possible extermination.
The berries and other fruits, seed and nuts our companion birds would normally consume in their native lands, by and
large, do not contain polysaccharides like glycogen and starch, which are not only classified as a carbohydrate, but also a sub-class of carbohydrates known as “cellulose” or more commonly known as “dietary fiber”. Birds would normally consume foodstuffs that are mostly monosaccharides and disaccharides, those that contain fructose and sucrose, not starches. Birds need quick and abundant energy that starches do not provide.
Our exotic birds have very fast and high metabolisms, you can verify this simply by noticing how fast the heart of an exotic bird beats. For this reason birds need reliable and quick energy. They receive most of their energy from “good fat” mainly from seed and nuts (medium-chain fatty acids), and then from the simple sugars they consume in the fruit and berries they eat. All of these foods are sources that get digested fairly quickly, then absorbed and metabolized into the metabolic system literally within minutes allowing a bird to take to flight immediately. If they were to consume foods that required long periods of time to fully metabolize they would be grounded for extended periods of time and they would also be much bulkier creatures, probably unable to fly long distances.
It’s important to understand that our exotic birds don’t store energy for long periods of time like many other animals do, they are not of the “mammal” species, they are of the class of “aves”, a class all its own. It’s also important to remember that parrots, specifically, do not have that one little organ known as the “cecum” that helps to digest polysaccharides in the form of cellulose known as starch. For these two reasons we need to begin shifting our ideology surrounding feeding our birds what we think is a “well-rounded” diet, based on what a good diet would be for humans, and begin thinking what a “well-rounded” diet would be for, well, a parrot.
This post you are reading right now came about as a result of a recent discussion in our corresponding “community group” on Facebook, “BirD-elicious! Feeding Feathers of Parrots & Birds with Food & Toys” in which one of the members asked why I am such a proponent of feeding certain fruits that are much higher in sugar content than I am of feeding carrots that are actually lower in sugar content, when my reasoning for not feeding carrots is because of their high sugar content. Well, I didn’t explain my reasoning very well to begin with which is obviously a mistake and oversight on my part.
Some of the “sugar” in carrots, let’s call it “carbohydrate”, because that’s what sugar is, is made up of “starch” the multi-unit carbohydrate polysaccharide mentioned above. This is basically an almost indigestible, un-useable kind of carbohydrate for a parrot because the parrot doesn’t have a cecum to extract the multi-unit carbohydrates from the cellulose in starch, some of the “kind” of sugar contained in carrots. Unfortunately the un-useable starch doesn’t get stored as useable energy, it ends up getting stored in the liver where it begins to form “fat”, and henceforth fatty liver disease can ensue. Most fruits, not all, but most, consist of monosaccharides and disaccharides that are easily converted to useable energy and do not sit in the metabolic system waiting to be converted down to a single unit carbohydrate.
Feeding an excess of food stuffs high in polysaccharides could be one of the reasons we are beginning to witness obesity in our exotic companion birds. With increased “domestication” and the sedentary lifestyle it naturally brings upon their lives, combined with the slow metabolism of so many starchy foods in their diet, it is no wonder so many birds are not only fighting the battle of the bulge, but also beginning to experience avian diabetes as well. The ability to break down starch depends on the number of “amylase genes” in the DNA of any given living creature. For example the human DNA contains a higher number of amylase genes than the chimpanzee does. Human saliva is rich with the amylase enzyme allowing starch to begin metabolizing before it ever reaches the upper digestive tract. However the parrot’s mouth is dry and does not contain amylase. It is not until the small intestine that starch comes into contact with amylase and then the liver and pancreas after that. The pancreas, the main insulin regulator, is left to perform the metabolizing of starch in a parrot’s diet, with no quantitative help from the main digestive organs. This enzyme “amylase” must take care of the breaking down of the starch and often this overtaxes the endocrine system in parrots because as previously mentioned, parrots are not genetically designed to digest and metabolize large quantities of starch. In fact elevations of amylase have been associated with “acute pancreatitis”. (ref: 1) But unfortunately in our human way of thinking we are adding a lot of starch to their daily diets thinking we are creating a well-rounded diet for them by quantitative variety when all we are doing is adding a long list of different starches.
If you take away nothing else from this post please understand that our companion birds’ digestive and metabolic systems, even though they are forced by domestication to be more sedentary than wild birds, and even though their metabolism still operates at a very fast rate, are not designed to digest and metabolize foods that are designed by Nature to process slowly through the digestive system. These two factors alone should tell us that we must try our very best to mimic the kind of nutrients they would consume in their natural habitats from vitamins and minerals to amino acids as well as fatty acids and carbohydrates, including the type of dietary fiber in the class of carbohydrates.
Having said all of this, and hopefully explaining why individual foods that contain starches should be greatly reduced and limited in our exotic birds’ diets, understanding that most of the food stuffs they would most likely consume in the wild only contain a very minimal amount of starch, with the exception of maybe a couple of isolated foods, how do we begin to shift our thinking regarding the diets of our companion birds’ and still be sure to feed a “well-rounded” diet? We must take that long, hard look at their natural habitat and attempt to mimic the vitamins, minerals, amino acids, fatty acids and carbohydrates. No, we cannot supply the same exact food stuffs, but we can mimic them. We know that common vegetables, legumes, and most grains do not naturally grow in the wild in our birds’ native lands. So we must look deep into the nutrients contained in the food stuffs that do grow in our birds’ native lands and find foods here in our land that are similar, but do not contain those hard to digest starches. We must supply the good fats through limited seed and nuts and high quality dietary oils and we must provide organic tropical fruits and berries. Finally, but not least on the list, tender young grasses and herbs that do not contain tough fibers are absolutely essential in providing necessary nutrients like balanced amino acids as well as fatty acids and even beta-carotene the precursor to vitamin A. All of these ingredients are those that are going to supply a vast array of nutrients in the form of reliable, but quick energy, to our birds without weighing them down with hard to digest long-chain fats or starches that tend to move slowly through the digestive tract.
1) http://www.elsevierhealth.co.uk/media/us/samplechapters/9780702028748/Chapter%2004.pdf
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*Information supplied by The BEST Bird Food or any of its contributors, associates, et al, does not intend to diagnose, treat or cure any symptom, illness or disease. Any information provided is strictly for the purpose of “sharing” resources. Should a reader decide to use any such information they do so at their own risk and holds author(s) and associates, et al, of The BEST Bird Food blog harmless in any and all legal matters concerning their health and the health of their family and/or friends and/or colleagues who they may share the information with as well as all of their pets and/or livestock whom they may practice the information upon.
Spring is definitely in the air and besides dealing with mating season many of us are also dealing with our own allergies. That brings something to my mind about how our companion birds may be feeling with all of the flowers, trees and weeds in bloom.
In addition to their already frustrated nature surrounding their desire to mate and nest, they may be just as bothered by the pollens in the air as we are. Maybe their skin is experiencing transitioning from the dryness of Winter to a new kind of dryness that Spring brings, the dryness brought on by allergies.
No one knows for sure, but with increased “domestication” in the blood lines from the commercial breeding taking place, it’s quite possible that exotic birds are losing some of their instinctual ability to produce the very DNA that naturally supports and protects their immune system. If this is true, then they will need their human caregivers to provide the vitamins and minerals through diet and nutrition even more as time moves forward.
There are some foods that need to be avoided during times when pollen counts are excessively high. Other times when pollen counts are not so high these foods can be fed without too much worry, that is unless you have a bird that is a picker, plucker or mutilator, then you might want to consider removing these foods completely just in case your bird is participating in these behaviors due to a highly sensitive immune system that runs at top speed at all times.
Foods you might want to consider removing from your bird’s diet, at least during the allergy season are, any fermented foods because they are naturally high in histamines as well as apricots, cherries, cranberries, currants, dates, loganberries, nectarines, oranges, papayas, peaches, pineapples, prunes, plums, raisins, raspberries, strawberries, tomatoes, eggplant and spinach as well as the more common fillers you find in most highly processed commercial foods such as corn, rice, wheat and soy. You want to remove all dairy products as well because these are difficult to digest and cause a buildup of mucous in the sinuses and overall respiratory tract making it very difficult to breathe when it is already difficult to breathe due to the pollens in the air.
Then there are foods you will actually want to feed to help combat the histamines in the system. These are foods which are high in vitamin C, and help to make the system more alkaline, such as grapefruit, lemon, limes, as well as foods that contain quercetin like White and Green Tea that also contain huge amounts of anti-oxidants in the form of additional flavonoids. Citrus is not only high in vitamin C which is a natural anti-histamine, but it is also high in quercetin which fights free radicals, and quercetin is showing great possibilities as a natural anti-histamine itself! Vitamin C is also known to help calm the nerves and is increasingly being used to help curb depression brought on by anxiety.
*All of this being said, I like to supplement each of my birds, every other day or so during mating/allergy season (even daily if necessary and well-tolerated), with 1 tsp. fresh squeezed organic red grapefruit juice, a dash, or two, of fresh squeezed lemon juice, a smidgen of a dash of Valerian Root (taken from a capsule of *certified 530mg*Valerian Root powder-*do not use the entire capsule, just the smidgen of a dash*-) over 2 Tbsp cooked and cooled organic Buckwheat cereal (no salt), with 1/16th tsp organic Flax seed oil added, per about 400 grams body weight. I have even been known to feed organic red grapefruit to my birds from time to time! (Valerian is a natural and gentle sedative and the Buckwheat contains the amino acid Tyrosine which is vital in balancing moods as in the case of obsession compulsion.) This great-tasting food mixture not only helps fight the allergies, but also calms and soothes any nerves that may be on edge because of any intensity the Spring season may bring with it due to mating season and allergy season combined!
Don’t forget, the rinds of grapefruit, lemons and limes are extremely nutritious too! They are rich sources of vitamin A in the form of beta-carotene. In addition the peels of fruit contain many minerals that are the foundation to good health! As an added benefit, scientists have isolated flavones in citrus peel that could be potentially more effective in lowering the lousy LDL cholesterol than some Statin drugs! This could be fabulous news for any of our birds suffering from fatty liver disease or that may be pre-diabetic! Just be sure if you are going to feed the peel you buy only organic fruit and wash it well. Conventionally grown fruit will contain high levels of pesticides that are not easy to get rid of simply by washing the fruit; the chemicals penetrate deep into the pores of the fruit.
One added action you can take to help relieve the amount of pollen in the air of your home and bird room is to run a cool water humidifier or vaporizer. And it is especially wonderful if you will infuse organic essential oils while doing this. I especially like to infuse the air with either Lemon or Purification by Young Living Essential Oils because either of these will help to eradicate any bacteria that may be lingering in the atmosphere from a long Winter’s period. Plus, it just makes the house smell fresh and clean all while taking the pollen count down. As a side benefit these oils will also help detox and purify the blood which, as it flows through the internal organs, will detox the liver and kidneys as well! I only use Young Living brand essential oils because this is the brand I have come to know and trust as the most pure and reliable essential oils to use around exotic birds.
Yep, the seasons are changing and this means taking on a whole new approach to how we care for our birds, one step at a time, hopefully learning even better approaches than last Spring and Summer!
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*Information supplied by The BEST Bird Food or any of its contributors, associates, et al, does not intend to diagnose, treat or cure any symptom, illness or disease. Any information provided is strictly for the purpose of “sharing” resources. Should a reader decide to use any such information they do so at their own risk and holds author(s) and associates, et al, of The BEST Bird Food blog harmless in any and all legal matters concerning their health and the health of their family and/or friends and/or colleagues who they may share the information with as well as all of their pets and/or livestock whom they may practice the information upon.
We have been talking about bringing our BirD-elicious! foods back to market. Our plan is to make this happen within a year. In order to do this we need to have a clear idea of our most popular foods because we will roll out our foods according to their popularity.
Please take a moment to take our poll and let us know which foods you will be most likely to purchase when we bring our foods back to market. If you will not be purchasing our foods, please do not participate in the poll.
The information you provide is completely confidential. Thank you!
Carbohydrates play an important role in the health and nutrition of our companion birds, but unfortunately they are grossly misunderstood. What is a “carbohydrate”? How are carbohydrates utilized by the body? What are the right kinds of carbohydrates? What is the difference between “simple” and “complex” carbohydrates?
First of all we need to understand that carbohydrates are a form of sugar. The main function of carbohydrates is to provide additional energy to the living body. This is supportive energy in addition to the energy that is provided by “good fat”. Carbohydrates, in the form of sugars, provide “quick energy”; they do not provide long-lasting energy the body can draw from for long periods of time, like energy that is derived from stored from fat. Carbohydrates are metabolized at a faster metabolic rate than fats are metabolized. They are metabolized into sugars that get transported into the metabolic system.
Carbohydrates break down into glucose, a sugar that the body recognizes as a useable fuel source. Glucose then gets transported throughout the body by way of the metabolic system, in other words through blood and lymph. Proteins and fats must be broken down into carbohydrates before they can be used by the body for energy. This is why the diet should be higher in healthy carbohydrates than proteins or fats. But a diet balanced in the correct ratio of protein-to-fat-to-carbohydrates as well as the right kind of carbohydrates must be provided so that unnecessary or improper weight gain does not occur. If the incorrect kind of carbohydrates are consumed on a regular basis there will be left over glycogen that will be stored in the fat cells as adipose fat tissue which may lead to obesity and other cascading health issues, even diabetes.
It’s important to know that it’s not enough to understand the difference between “simple” and “complex” carbohydrates. We must really understand the molecular structure of carbohydrates; simple carbs are constructed of one molecule and complex carbs are constructed of two or more molecules. And we must also understand that there are good and bad carbohydrates in each category.
Since complex carbohydrates are those that contain multiple molecules they must go through a metabolic process in which the body recognizes the “sugar” as a friendly fuel source known as “glucose” which only contains one molecule. Living creatures can only properly utilize one-molecule carbohydrates, therefore any and every multi-molecule carbohydrate that enters a living body has to be broken down into this one-molecule form before the body can utilize it as an energy source, it’s just much more efficient if the source is already in a recognizable form as in the case of most simple carbohydrates.
Because simple carbohydrates are made up of only one molecule the body recognizes them as friendly and easy to metabolize, the body doesn’t have to work as hard to utilize simple carbohydrates; this doesn’t place a strain on the liver and kidneys. That is, as long as the type of simple carbohydrate consumed is a natural carbohydrate and not refined such as in sugar, pasta made with white flour, or white breads, these kinds of simple carbohydrates are unhealthy to consume and actually overtax the liver and kidneys causing a buildup of adipose fat in the fat cells by way of supplying too much sugar for the body to utilize. Simple carbohydrates enter the blood system at a quicker rate so they provide quick energy, but complex carbs enter the blood system at a slower rate, providing energy over a more even and extended period of time.
It is important to keep in mind that our companion birds are not far removed from their wild and instinctual behavior to fly freely in the skies and therefore still maintain the need to process their energy sources quickly. For this reason it is of utmost importance to understand the kind of carbohydrates their body requires as readily digestible and easily metabolized energy sources. Unfortunately many of the foodstuffs being fed to our companion birds today are not these types of energy sources.
I could go into a very long dissertation regarding how all of this works within the digestion system, but I reserve that in depth information for my up and coming book regarding companion bird nutrition. So for now I will just talk about which foods I believe to be the best to feed to keep our companion birds’ internal motors humming and which foods I believe we need to try to avoid.
The complex carbohydrates I try to stay away from, well actually I avoid at all costs, are all kinds of pastas, even whole-grain pastas because they still contain starch which weighs the digestive tract down, potatoes, rice, whether it be white, brown or any other variety, corn, wheat, whether the wheat is processed or whole-grain, and soy. These, along with the simple white/refined carbohydrates I listed above, are absolutely at the top of my list to avoid. All of them either contain high amounts of starch or gluten. Starch is a sticky, waxy substance that our companion birds cannot break down in their digestive tract because they lack the enzymes and acids to do so. And even if we cook them, at best these items break down into a gel-like substance, they do not become water-soluble. If they cannot become water –soluble then what does that say about their ability to be completely metabolized by the metabolic system? Then, some of these items contain gluten, an indigestible protein. And at least one of them, soy, contains phyto-estrogens that can actually change the hormonal balance of our birds’ delicate hormonal system.
Other complex carbohydrates I feed, but in very limited quantities are oats, millet, barley and legumes. While these may be high in plant protein, we have to be careful because they tend to be high in glutens or starch as well. In addition some of them actually need to be soaked or cooked to obtain any real nutrition from them at all. In the wild birds do not cook their foods before ingesting them.
Vegetables also fall into the category of complex carbohydrates and I am moving away from feeding them to companion birds for this very reason plus the fact that they contain dense cellulose that is difficult for parrots to digest.
On the other hand there are some very reliable carbohydrates that I feed on a regular basis such as alfalfa, mango, peaches, blueberries, raspberries, persimmon, papaya, grapefruit, dandelion greens, pears, various nuts, various seed, but especially hemp, flax, red clover and safflower seed (a bitter-tasting seed).
The more research I perform for these beautiful creatures of the air the more I am convinced that they are designed to consume mainly fruit and berries. They are also designed to consume seed, usually bitter-tasting seed they find within the berries and fruit along with tender grass shoots, tender leaves from bushes and trees. They will occasionally consume soft barks and once in awhile snack on the delicacy of an insect or two. Rarely will you find them consuming grains or vegetables and only if there is not an abundance of the aforementioned foods I listed because their primary food sources have become scarce or are completely unavailable. It is us, being the “civilized” creatures we are, who are attempting to change their eating habits by introducing grains and vegetables, and now even meat, into the daily diets of these mostly herbivorous creature’s lives. But if we would really look more closely at what they consume in the wild long before we began invading their habitat and planting crops that are not indigenous to their land, these creatures would not be consuming the very foods we are attempting to “domesticate” their internal organs to today.
If we would take a closer look at what we have forcibly evolved our companion birds’ diet into, feeding them diets high in grains, and now even vegetables and sometimes meat, we would soon come to understand why they are showing signs of physical and even emotional stress. We cannot take a “wild” animal through the process of true domestication and expect absolutely no signs of physical, mental and emotional stress to present throughout the process. By removing these creatures from their wild habitat we are changing their natural environment (living space), their creature comforts, the air they breathe, their daylight and darkness of night, all of their natural food sources, among many, many other factors. It absolutely does not make any sense to think we can change all of these factors, including what they internally ingest without inducing a negative impact on their overall mental, emotional and physical health and well-being.
In conclusion, I am of the opinion that it is not us that should expect their internal organs to adjust to what we want to feed them, but that we should adapt to feeding them what their systems are already equipped to consume and try to find viable solutions to try to find foods that are at least similar to what they would consume in the wild. While we cannot feed the exact same foods they would find in the wild, we can at least find comparable food sources that are in the same categories, mostly simple carbohydrates containing vital omega fatty acids their delicate systems recognize along with plant proteins their bodies can easily digest and metabolize. Vegetables, grains, pastas, breads and meats are not what these creatures would consume in their natural habitats. We need to be feeding fruits, berries, seed, nuts, and tender grasses, tender bush and tree leaves, soft barks and tiny amounts of insects with the life-giving-healing elements and nutrients their delicate systems crave in order to thrive.
*I have written an article dated 4.25.2012 regarding “fatty liver disease”, and how the carbohydrates starch and glycogen plays a role in this disease. You can read this article by clicking here.
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*Information supplied by The BEST Bird Food or any of its contributors, associates, et al, does not intend to diagnose, treat or cure any symptom, illness or disease. Any information provided is strictly for the purpose of “sharing” resources. Should a reader decide to use any such information they do so at their own risk and holds author(s) and associates, et al, of The BEST Bird Food blog harmless in any and all legal matters concerning their health and the health of their family and/or friends and/or colleagues who they may share the information with as well as all of their pets and/or livestock whom they may practice the information upon.
Yes, it’s that time of the year when our beloved companion birds begin to “sow their wild oats”! And while this behavior is perfectly normal, and it provides a good time to molt those old, worn out feathers to grow beautiful new feathers in, the behavior that comes along with this seasonal behavior can both cause great discomfort to our birds and drive us absolutely up the wall!
Although not all companion birds experience this phenomenon at the same time of the year, because of the circadian clock, each bird really does have its very own cycle. But for many of us, we will experience this behavior along with many of our fellow exotic bird-lovers.
There is a lot we can do to come to the aid of our birds to provide them comfort, and us as well, during this very frustrating and uncomfortable time.
First and foremost we need to have a good understanding of what biologically takes place in our birds during breeding season. An abundance of testosterone is produced by both the male and the female birds. So in order to help curtail this “mating and breeding behavior” we actually want to help lower the testosterone our birds’ systems are naturally producing.
Testosterone is synthesized from cholesterol, so this is one good reason we want to keep cholesterol at a healthy level in our birds. But let me explain what I mean, we can’t just take my statement at face value and say that we need to avoid cholesterol overall in order to prevent testosterone from being produced. It’s the lousy “LDL” cholesterol we want to avoid in our birds’ diet, such as fat obtained from the long chain fatty acids (LCFA’s) from meat or other animal products. We actually want to keep the healthy “HDL” good high density lipoproteins (normally obtained from plant fatty acids, medium chain fatty acids (MCFA’s) in our birds’ diets. Our birds need the good “HDL’s” in order to transport oxygen and other nutrients throughout the body. The brain which consists of mostly “fat cells” especially needs these healthy “good fats” in the form of Omegas obtained from certain plant oils. And by raising the “HDL’s” and offering healthy Omegas in the form of *Palm Fruit and Coconut oil during breeding season we will help calm our birds’ overall behavior, while also providing the “good fats” they need for healthy overall nutritional support and proper brain function. However, I must caution you, DO NOT use hemp and flax oil in high amounts during breeding season, these are high in nutrients that actually help produce testosterone, keep them at minimal levels, just enough to keep your bird calm, cool and collected. At any other time of the year these are perfectly safe oils to use, but not during this time period known as “Seasonal Hormonal Irregularity (SHI)”.
Let me explain the delicate balance just a bit.
At any other time of the year you want to be sure your feathered friend is receiving enough of these highly beneficial fatty acids to keep its system running smoothly, carrying enough essential nutrients to all of the vital organs of the body as well as a good supply of oxygen to the brain. You can feed these oils fairly liberally to exotic birds during off-mating season periods because they consume a good amount in the wild by way of the fatty acids in the fruits and leafy vegetation they consume as well as the nuts and seed they eat in the wild. In captivity they are at our mercy and we need to make sure we are supplying a fair source of these fatty acids through quality sources such as hemp seed and flax seed oils.
But during the mating season, otherwise known as “Seasonal Hormonal Irregularity“, we need to back off just a tad because these oils also provide the nutrients that supply the basis to manufacture testosterone which will cause our birds to become more frustrated and may lead to more aggressive flock behavior or even feather destruction. However, we still need to make sure our birds receive enough of the Omega 3′s to help soothe and calm their nerves, because this is exactly what the Omega 3′s do, they have an overall effect on our bird’s emotional health. So while the nutrients can, and do, help to manufacture testosterone, they also play a vital role in balancing our birds’ moods. It’s a tricky proposition and one you have to balance carefully.
I suggest, during mating season, cutting the amount you normally feed at least in half and see how that goes. You might want to discontinue the hemp seed oil all together during mating season and offer only the flax seed oil during this time. Resume the hemp seed oil / flax seed oil combination after mating season is well over. My typical recommendation for hemp seed oil / flax seed oil is a 1.5 part to 1 part ratio respectively. But regardless, whether you are feeding the combination of the two oils during off-mating season, or you are feeding only the flax seed oil during mating season, below are the feeding guidelines, just remember to cut them at least in half during mating season:
You can add it on top of their food. (Please DO NOT add this to their drinking water! It will only coagulate and cause a mess and if you don’t wash the water bowl out really, really well, it could go rancid.) And about how much will you be using? Just a drop for small Budgies once a day is more than enough. You can probably get away with giving only a drop every other day.For parakeets such as the Ringneck and similar size birds a drop or two daily will do. Moving on up to larger birds, say Conures, Pionus and the like, maybe 3 or 4 drops a day on top of their food. Then for African Greys, small Cockatoos (and even the small Macaws) and such, 5 drops to a 1/16th of a teaspoon a day. Larger Cockatoos you could give from 1/16th to 1/8th of a teaspoon a day depending on skin and feather quality. Then the large Macaws you can give 1/8th to ¼ teaspoon daily depending on skin and feather quality. Always pay close attention to the skin and feather condition. If all is looking good and their energy level is normal, meaning “active” and not over active or on the other end, lethargic, then you are probably feeding the right amount of oil. Feeding oils will give your bird an extra boost in energy so be on the lookout for that emotional effect. (If you have a bird that is abnormally lethargic, consult your licensed avian veterinarian, this is not normal.)
*(Palm fruit oil is high in beta-carotene and naturally synthesizes into vitamin A during the metabolic process in our birds’ systems, which is normally very good for our companion birds, and I highly recommend feeding this oil on an occasional basis. However, there is some, though very scarce, research that indicates that vitamin A may contribute to the synthesis of testosterone. If this is accurate research we would want to avoid feeding Palm oil during the breeding season and feed only Coconut oil as a replacement to Palm oil, avoiding all other types of oils except in low doses, just enough to keep your bird calm. I would take each bird on an individual basis and watch their behavior closely. If you witness your bird becoming aggressive or cranky after you have fed Palm oil, simply discontinue feeding it until after breeding season has lapsed.)
Anyway, this cholesterol I mentioned above, comes from cells in the ovaries in females and from cells in the testes of males. These cells synthesize and secrete the androgens, androstenedione and dihydroepiandosterone (DHEA). Small amounts of testosterone are also secreted by the adrenal glands, but most of it comes from the testes in males and the ovaries in females.
The amount of testosterone produced and secreted is controlled by a circulating luteinizing hormone (LH), as well as a follicle stimulation hormone (FSH)(not to be confused with feather follicles in any way, this hormone is strictly concerned with the female’s ovaries ability to reproduce). These two hormones are secreted by the pituitary gland and are regulated by the hypothalamus gland located deep within the brain. This is a self-regulating process and is drastically affected by physiological as well as environmental conditions. These hormones primarily regulate ovulation in female birds although it does have an effect on testosterone levels in females as well, but it primarily regulates testosterone in males.
The pineal gland integrates the photoperiod by which a living creature regulates its life cycle, it is responsible for the circadian rhythm, and it produces melatonin and it is that hormone that carries both the LH, the FSH as well as prolactin a luteotrpic hormone (LTH) that is a protein-like substance and an important regulator of the immune system. Prolactin serves an important function in overall growth of all body parts but also plays an important role in blood coagulation as well.
If you have ever wondered what the biological connection is between breeding season and a good molt, this is the reason.
Foods that are high in the “B” vitamins, but specifically B5, B6 and B12 as well as foods high in zinc, will actually increase libido, in both female and male birds, because they help in the production of testosterone. These foods would include bananas, figs, asparagus, fish, poultry, meat of any kind, eggs, basil, and literally all nuts and seeds. It may seem like you are starving your bird during breeding season by reducing or removing these foods, but keep in mind that many birds will be “love-sick” anyway and may actually reduce their food intake naturally. While birds may eat voraciously prior to actual breeding season, they may actually reduce their food intake upon the actual breeding time period in order to prepare for the activity ahead, mating and then later during the production of eggs and then brooding over them. So reducing their food intake is not a mean or harmful thing to do, and it may just help with lowering the amount of testosterone produced giving the bird, and you, a more peaceful and calm environment in which to live during this potentially stressful time.
Other foods we want to avoid feeding during this time are those high in the amino acid “Arginine” because it increases the gas known as “nitric oxide”. This gas expands, or dilates, the veins and arteries which actually helps increase the libido by allowing more blood to flow through the veins and arteries creating a pulsating, vibrating or “quivering” sensation. I have discussed this particular amino acid in great detail in a couple other blog posts so I will not go into detail here, rather you can just click on the hi-lighted words “Amino Acids” and “Arginine” to learn more about the effects of this essential, but cautionary amino acid on your bird’s diet and overall health.
However, during Seasonal Hormonal Irregularity (“SHI”) there are food items and delicacies you can add to your bird’s diet to help prevent the production of testosterone levels too, or just overall balance out the hormonal levels.
Yams (although these are high in Arginine so watch your individual bird carefully when feeding this food for any increased breeding/mating behavioral signs), the orange-red variety, are a natural phyto-estrogen and will aid in the balancing of hormones. And once again, yams are high in beta-carotene which as already mentioned, converts to vitamin A in the body’s own synthesizing process.
Dandelion greens are also touted as hormone balancing because they contain taraxerol and taraxasterol powerful triterpenoids that are anti-inflammatory, antimicrobial and anti-tumor as well. In addition they are extremely high in beta-carotene. But don’t use Dandelion in overabundance as it is high in vitamin K, a powerful blood coagulant.
Red clover seed as well as red clover blossoms are excellent in aiding to balance hormonal levels in both male and female birds. If you find that your bird doesn’t like the whole red clover seed, simply grind the seed in a coffee bean grinder (after you have thoroughly washed the grinder) and mix the fine powder in with other foods your bird likes. I haven’t met a bird yet that doesn’t like the organic dried red clover blossoms (available from Mountain Rose Herbs).
Organic dried hibiscus flower petals are good for curtailing testosterone production too. You can feed them dry just as you would feed the dried red clover flowers; just add them in to your bird’s food. Or, if you would like you can steep a tea, let it cool, and give it to your bird as its drinking water a couple of days of the week. But don’t go overboard with it, just a couple of days out of each week throughout breeding season, not every day.
Generally foods that are high in the essential amino acid Lysine may help curtail the libido by constricting the veins and arteries to some degree, having the opposite effect of Arginine.
Another great treatment for curtailing testosterone production is the Young Living essential oil, “Clary Sage”. Once in the system it actually turns into estrogen. And of course we understand that when estrogen is at play, testosterone is not and libido is calmed down. You can either offer a drop or two on top of your birds food (yes, it is perfectly safe to feed, especially if you are offering a pure, organic blend such as the Young Living brand). Or, if you prefer, you can atomize it through an infuser at regular intervals of 2 minutes on and one hour off throughout a 24 hour period. If you find that even that is too strong for you and your household, reduce the time to 1 minute on and 1 hour off. Don’t infuse it 24/7 though, that would cause an overabundance of estrogen to be produced in both your birds and you!
Some people have found Bach Flower Essences to be of help with “SHI” and have suggested the use of “Cerato, Wild Oat and Scleranthus” added directly to their drinking water. While I have used Bach Flower Essences on occasion, I have not used these three in combination specifically for hormonal balance. But I would not hesitate to try them if the other methods I have listed failed to provide the relief my birds need during breeding season.
Now I wish to move on to another, but very important subject matter regarding your bird during breeding season and that is the topic regarding your bird’s environment! This includes not only your bird’s overall space (room, lighting, temperature, and humidity), but also the inside of its cage and the bowls and toys inside of the cage.
The canopy of the Rain Forest in which most of our exotic companion birds live is actually drier than most other parts of the overall forest. But most likely during breeding season it becomes more humid as the plants, flowers and trees begin to bloom. It is for this reason that I suggest, in order to curtail the breeding behavior that we attempt to “dry out” our birds’ space to some degree. I know this goes against everything we teach most of the time, but remember this is a specific time of year when we are attempting to avoid a particular kind of behavior and help our birds through a very uncomfortable and frustrating time of their seasonal life. So if you are running a humidifier I suggest you dial it back a little, don’t turn it off, just dial it back a tad, until breeding season is completely over and done with. This will help “click off” that part of the brain, the hypothalamus, and trick it into thinking that breeding season does not really exist, at least mentally. It doesn’t mean that the physiological aspects of your bird’s body, the molting and the growing in of new feathers, will stop all together, it just means that you are calming down the mental and emotional aspects of what your bird is experiencing. And you might want to cool down your bird’s room a tad too. Remember, in the wild if the humidity raises, the temperature does too. So if you are lowering the humidity as well as the temperature, you are curtailing the kind of environment that a wild bird would key into during a natural breeding season. You don’t have to make your bird’s room into a freezer, just turn the temperature down a degree or two, it will make all of the difference in the world.
Also during breeding season the days become longer, there are more daylight hours. So if there is any way possible don’t allow that to happen quite as fast as it’s actually happening in real life, make it happen at a slower pace so your bird can ease into the Spring and Summer months at a slower pace, gently easing your bird into the new season. If you can, allow your bird to take advantage of those longer days for a longer period of time, but at the same time don’t allow your bird to go to bed! WHAT? Yeah, that’s what I said. Because if you disrupt your bird’s normal sleeping pattern you will cause your bird’s entire physiological system to become off-balanced and that will have an effect on its ability to produce testosterone. So try to keep things dark around your bird’s room instead of allowing it to stay light at night, but keep your bird up later than usual to interrupt your bird’s overall system so it can’t produce the hormones it would normally produce, throw the system off-balance. You don’t have to keep your bird up another hour or two, just keep it up another 15 to 30 minutes, that’s enough to change your bird’s circadian cycle.
Next, consider the food bowls you have in your bird’s cage. Are they large enough to make nests in? If so you may want to consider replacing them with smaller bowls or bowls that be can’t climbed into and a nest be made in. Nesting instincts are very strong in these not-yet-truly-domesticated exotic birds and they will make use of anything they can to make a nice home for their potential eggs and potentially coming little nestlings.
And remember, what you consider a toy for your bird may be looked at with completely different eyes by your bird. Your bird may view that shreddable toy as nesting material. You might need to remove the toy from the cage and if necessary don’t replace it with anything until breeding season has passed. If you can’t find a toy that doesn’t have any shreddable objects on it, then leave your bird without a toy. As harsh as it may sound, doing without a “toy” for awhile isn’t going to kill your bird. But there are toys on the market that are not shreddable, it takes a lot of looking, but they are out there, you just have to be diligent in your search.
On the other hand, if your bird has not yet learned how to forage, leaving a shreddable toy in your bird’s cage during this time of year may prove to be a valuable time for your bird to learn how to forage and shred! Use this natural breeding, mating and nesting instinct for your bird to learn how to forage and shred. Then just simply remove the shredded materials before your bird has the opportunity to actually make a nest!
And finally hey, maybe you can spend more time with your bird teaching it how to come out of the cage, how to step up, or other new behaviors to take your bird’s mind off of its mating frustrations. That is unless spending more time with you brings out more breeding behaviors like regurgitating on you, showing its love and affection for you. If so, then “Polly” spending time alone in her cage may be the only solution during this time, unfortunately.
An entirely new concept for many of us may be avoiding colorful toy parts…
Let’s think about this rationally. What happens in the wild during the normal mating and breeding season? That’s when trees, plants and flowers begin to bloom and the landscape comes alive with color. This is a natural visual trigger to our exotic birds. And what do many species of birds do during their courting procedures? They dance about and “display their colors” to their potential mates! Is it any wonder then that so many of our birds pick, pluck and mutilate, possibly in total frustration when we place colorful toys inside of their cages, hanging there 24/7 “displaying mating colors” constantly before their eyes antagonizing them like a temptress beckoning them to dance along in true mating behavior? We need to rethink how the brightly colored “toys” we are placing in our birds’ environments may be affecting their emotions, even when their hormones are not actively and fully engaged in full-fledged breeding season. We may just be triggering an “artificial” breeding season at other times of the year leading to generalized picking, feather plucking and skin mutilation without even realizing it.
Lastly, for any of you that may be in to using healing crystals, the crystal “Smokey Quartz” is commonly used to calm hormones and help with the production of female estrogen. And as mentioned earlier, when estrogen levels are increased, testosterone levels decrease lowering the libido. Simply place two or three of these crystals around your bird’s cage and allow the “energy” from the crystals to do their “work”. Keep in mind that you will need to “clean” or re-energize, or “re-charge” your crystals from time to time. Normally this is done by placing them in the sunlight for a few hours up to a day or so.
Now, taking a much, much different approach to all of this, if your bird hasn’t had a good, hard molt in a very long time, you might want to allow your bird to continue onward through this natural process as long as your bird isn’t physically harming itself and you can tolerate the behavior. Remember, this is a natural process, something your bird would experience in the wild. And it’s good for your bird to experience a molt and rid itself of old, worn out feathers. It’s good physically as well as mentally and emotionally. Just be sure to provide as much comfort and reassurance to your bird during this time as you possibly can.
Provide all of the food your bird will need to actually induce a good, hard molt by adding in to your bird’s diet, in abundance, some of the foods I suggested eliminating above. Allow the natural change of the season to occur, letting all of the longer daylight hours of natural sunlight in to your bird’s room. And you might even want to increase the humidity and slightly raise the temperature in your bird’s room.
But please don’t encourage any breeding behavior by offering toys all decked out in loud colors, this will only add to the frustration your bird is already experiencing. The natural physiological process your bird is going through will take care of itself without the complexity and confusion of adding tempting “fake colorful mates” by way of brightly colored toys hanging around 24/7.
All in all if your bird still has the “call of the wild” in it, and let’s face it most of these exotic birds do have that “wild instinct” because they aren’t that far removed from their natural habitats, only on record as domesticated since 300b.c., and even that’s somewhat debatable, then there isn’t a lot any of us can do to avoid this behavior completely. The next best thing we can do is to make our birds as comfortable as possible during this stressful time, provide them with adequate nutrition, adjust their lighting, their air source, room temperature, and their cage environment to try to suit their current situation and suffer along with them until their misery passes. Hopefully on the other side of it all the reward will come with some amount of new feather growth if a molt occurs. If not, well then we need to be thankful that our bird, and us as well, made it through another season. Hey, it’s not so much to go through considering all of the wonderful companionship they offer to us for all of the remaining times of the year!
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Machelle Pacion / The BEST Bird Food / BirD-elicious! / Passion Tree House LLC © 2012 All Rights Reserved
*Information supplied by The BEST Bird Food or any of its contributors, associates, et al, does not intend to diagnose, treat or cure any symptom, illness or disease. Any information provided is strictly for the purpose of “sharing” resources. Should a reader decide to use any such information they do so at their own risk and holds author(s) and associates, et al, of The BEST Bird Food blog harmless in any and all legal matters concerning their health and the health of their family and/or friends and/or colleagues who they may share the information with as well as all of their pets and/or livestock whom they may practice the information upon.
Monsanto is at it still, again, more…Please read this article and then sign the petition to keep GMO/GE (Genetically Modified Organisms/Genetically Engineered) foods out of our markets! Research has indicated that the DNA of the people/animals/pets consuming these foods may permanently be changed. These foods are already on grocery shelves across our Nation.
If Monsanto gets their way and all alfalfa seed is “infected” with their chemical that staves off pests from the inside out, then this would mean that our company would not be able to obtain any alfalfa that is not GMO.
In plain language GMO plants are plants that are defined by the FDA as natural pesticides themselves. In other words, because they contain the pesticides within the germ of the seed, they are considered pesticides themselves. Do you want your bird to consume plants that are labeled as pesticides by the FDA?
Well, you are already consuming foods that are labeled pesticides by the FDA. There are literally thousands of GMO/GE foods on the grocery store shelves and we don’t even know it. FDA does not require food manufacturers to label their packages “GMO” or “GE” so it’s virtually impossible to know which foods contain these pesticides. Right now the only way to be absolutely certain you are not consuming these altered foods is to purchase certified organic foods. Even if the package states “natural” that doesn’t guarantee you are not purchasing “GMO” or “GE” foods, the label must clearly state “certified organic” ingredients.
However, if this “deregulation” passes, as indicated in the article I am providing in the link below, even “certified organic” will no longer guarantee that you are not consuming these pesticides. Food manufacturers will be allowed to use ingredients that are GMO/GE and continue to leave that information off of their labels, and they will still be allowed to label the product as “certified organic” and the consumer will never know the difference.
You may ask how can I possibly arrive at this conclusion, the same way I know about other food additives that are not disclosed on our labels. For instance, and I have talked about this in other posts, regarding monosodium glutamate, or more commonly known as MSG. As long as the primary manufacturer does not directly add it to their product they do not have to disclose it on the label. In other words, if the MSG is the secondary ingredient to a primary ingredient the food manufacturer is purchasing from a supplier, the food manufacturer doesn’t have to list the secondary ingredient on the package label, they only have to list the primary ingredient, not the MSG that is contained in that ingredient!
And then take Diatomaceous Earth for another example. Thousands of grain mills use this as a natural, and safe way to eliminate tiny pests like weevils from invading their stored grains that go into our grains, cereals, pastas and such. Because the FDA considers this substance to be an “inert” substance, manufacturers are not required to list it on their packaging, yet it is literally in every dry food on the grocery store shelf.
If Monsanto gets away with this deregulation, this may constitute the first time in the history of certified organic foods that they will contain pesticides but still maintain the certified organic label! This is appalling! This is totally unfair and removes all truth in labeling!
Please, please read the article and then sign the petition at the end of the article. This deregulation will have a HUGE effect on the future production of BirD-elicious! foods.
http://www.huffingtonpost.com/ronnie-cummins/the-organic-elite-surrend_b_815346.html
If I were forced to name only one of the main causes of “The Mutilation Syndrome”, even though I believe there are many causes, I would probably have to list malnutrition at the top of my list. The reason I would feel safe in listing malnutrition as the main cause of this insidious syndrome is because it takes in a wide variety of nutritional aspects and it’s an umbrella for so many other causatives of poor health.
Malnutrition could be the lack of the vital base macro-nutrients in the diet derived from whole-foods such as vitamins and minerals. Or it could be the lack of Omegas in the form of fatty acids derived from the “good fats” from seed and nuts. What I wish to focus upon in this section though are the amino acids, and in particular the balance, or proper ratio, of those amino acids because they provide the protein the body needs for so many basic and primary bodily functions.
If the amino acids are imbalanced, or skewed, favoring one amino acid over another, then a “complete protein” is missing in the overall diet and as a result the body cannot metabolize proteins correctly causing malnutrition to set in if the diet lacks this “complete protein” nutrition over a long period of time.
If this situation occurs, the body, being the miraculous creation it is, will begin to “feed on itself” for the nutrition it lacks, absorbing all of the nutrients from within, slowly dying without notice to the outside world. Eventually the creature that is suffering malnutrition may even begin to consume itself, as in the case of The Mutilation Syndrome. The bird may begin to pick at its own feathers and nibble on the ends of the feathers for a short time hoping to find some of the nutrients, such as vitamins, minerals and proteins, found within the feather shaft, to reabsorb back into its system before discarding them to the bottom of the cage. Or, in the case of skin mutilation, the bird may even be attempting to gain access to the very protein it is lacking by picking at the skin or gaining access to the tiniest droplets of blood seeping through the wounds it created by picking the skin open.
It really doesn’t matter the quantity of food a bird like this is fed if the amino acids are not properly balanced in the food the bird is being fed. The bird can consume large quantities of the food, even appearing to be obese, but in reality is suffering malnutrition. If the amino acids are not balanced, i.e. a “complete protein” is not present, then the bird will not be receiving a protein source that can be properly metabolized by its metabolic system and utilized as nutrition for bodily functions, therefore malnutrition is bound to set in at some point in time.
Yes, it is possible to supplement the diet with additional whole foods to ensure additional amino acids are being offered to round out the diet. But one must have a very good knowledge and understanding of the commercial diet they are feeding their bird in the first place. One must know just how those additional foods interplay with the commercial diet, their vitamin content, fatty acid content, and of course the amino acid content they are adding to the diet, in order to know for sure if their bird is receiving a total, complete and balanced diet overall so that malnutrition does not exist.
One way of knowing this is to have your bird’s blood panel checked on a regular basis. A regular blood count with additional vitamin, mineral and blood lipid counts should be performed in order to know exactly where your bird’s overall nutritional profile stands. But you need to know exactly what to look for clinically as well. Keep a good eye out on your bird’s energy and activity levels, coordination and movements, the condition of the feathers, the moisture and suppleness of the skin, even the legs, as well as the condition of the talons and beak making sure there are no cracks or scales and that they are not overgrown. Make sure the Ceres are clear and smooth, not congested. Make sure the breathing is smooth and not labored. Notice the droppings and make sure they are consistently the same, take notice of any abrupt changes.
Overall, malnutrition is very silent and insidious, but in my opinion it is pervasive in birds that pick, pluck and mutilate. I believe that most commercial bird foods are amino acid deficient and they lack the proper balancing of the most basic nutrients needed to build the “complete protein” our companion birds need in order to metabolize proteins efficiently. This is not all that difficult to remedy, but is does require more expensive ingredients than most commercial food producers are utilizing today. Being a strong advocate of preventative health care, I suggest the bird food industry begin producing foods that prevent malnutrition, thus preventing other health issues as well. I would rather see people spend their hard earned cash on wholesome foods that prevent health a crisis than to pay for health problems down the line and see their companion birds suffer, maybe to the point of no recovery.
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Machelle Pacion / The BEST Bird Food / BirD-elicious! / Passion Tree House LLC © 2012 All Rights Reserved
*Information supplied by The BEST Bird Food or any of its contributors, associates, et al, does not intend to diagnose, treat or cure any symptom, illness or disease. Any information provided is strictly for the purpose of “sharing” resources. Should a reader decide to use any such information they do so at their own risk and holds author(s) and associates, et al, of The BEST Bird Food blog harmless in any and all legal matters concerning their health and the health of their family and/or friends and/or colleagues who they may share the information with as well as all of their pets and/or livestock whom they may practice the information upon.
I recently wrote a fairly comprehensive overview regarding dietary fats for companion birds. In that review I mentioned “fatty liver” disease but I did not go into great detail. I think it might be a good idea to explain just what fatty liver disease is and how it develops as well as how it can be avoided and still feed our birds the “good fats” they need in their diet.
In fatty liver disease fat accumulates in the liver, more correctly an abnormal amount of fat lipids are retained within in each cell of the liver creating liver hepatitis. It affects the metabolism of fats in the liver. It adds to an already existing metabolic problem of glucose processing known as insulin resistance and even adds to the existing problem of malnutrition if it is already present.
Fatty liver disease normally develops in humans as the result of drinking too many alcoholic beverages over a long period of time destroying liver cells thus creating cirrhosis of the liver.
But there is a type of fatty liver disease that develops where drinking alcohol is not involved and it is appropriately called non-alcoholic fatty liver disease (NAFLD). Scientists and researches aren’t exactly sure what causes this type of FLD but they suspect it has to do with insulin resistance along with a buildup of bad (LCT) triglycerides in the liver, inflammatory bowel disorder, or even malnutrition. They also strongly suspect that the victim has a weakened immune system and this could very well be the case in parrots that may carry viruses for autoimmune disorders such as PBFD or even Psittacosis. Birds that have, or have had Polyoma or Pacheco’s are also susceptible to FLD because both of these are auto-immune disorders. In the case of having any of these immune disorders the immune system attacks the liver causing the liver to become susceptible to FLD.
Another antagonist of NAFLD is Wilson’s Disease. This is an inherited disorder where the carrier of the gene absorbs and retains too much copper in body tissue, especially the liver. In the case of FLD fats cannot be processed correctly because the accumulation of copper present in the liver causes damage to the liver so that it does not function properly.
I will briefly touch on the idea of malnutrition. If, in my opinion, we are feeding our birds nothing but highly processed foods then the signs are obvious, there is absolutely no way our bird can receive the right kind of nutrition from something that is ground up beyond recognition and then chemical supplements are added back into it. Our birds need whole-food nutrition in order to receive all of the natural digestive enzymes, macro-nutrients, micro-nutrients and vitamins whole food has to offer. No living creature can survive on a few ground ingredients with nothing but additional chemicals added to them and be expected to thrive. A large variety of natural and living ingredients need to be fed on a daily and ongoing basis for the life of the living creature.
Then there is the much more obvious symptoms of FLD, too much bad fat. And this is what all of us worry so much about, even to the point that we find ourselves holding back the much needed fat our companion birds actually need in their diet in order for their systems to properly function. In humans it is known fact that 70% of our brain is made up of fat. Fat helps carry oxygen to our brain among other vital nutrients. If we have a knowledgeable understanding about the kind of fats we need to be feeding to our birds then we will not have any worries about feeding fat to our birds. After all, these exotic flighted creatures consume good fats in abundance in their natural habitats, it only makes sense they need these fats in their diet on a regular basis. So why are we taking these healthy fats away simply because we have decided to turn these creatures into our companions in our homes? It doesn’t make sense no matter what reasons we use. To say that they don’t get as much exercise, that they are more sedate in their cages doesn’t add up. They have very high metabolisms even when they are at rest. They have naturally oily glands, especially their preening glands, this is what their feathers need to keep preened correctly to keep them oiled smoothly down for flight and to lay smoothly on their body. They need the oil to keep their skin supple and their beaks and talons strong, but not brittle.
So let me explain the difference in fats once more.
There are long chain fats (LCFAs) and medium chain fats (MCFAs). The long chain fats are what animal fats are made of and the systems of living creatures don’t know how to metabolize these kinds of fats. Therefore they need high amounts of insulin from the pancreas as well as bile from the liver to be broken down and metabolized. In other words these kinds of fats overtax a living creature’s system. And what doesn’t get used as energy ends up getting stored in the fat cells throughout the body, as well as the liver, i.e. fatty liver disease can eventually set in. Compound that with any additional problems such as an auto-immune disorder as I mentioned above and nothing but trouble abounds. LCFAs should not be consumed by living creatures; they are what can cause strokes, heart disease and fatty liver disease.
But if the fats that are being consumed are medium chain fats, such as fats that are found in plant fatty acids such as flax and hemp oils, then we have less to worry about. These fats are “good fats” and do not require insulin from the pancreas or bile acids from the liver to be metabolized. Basically, these fats do not raise blood glucose levels, nor do they tax the liver and kidneys. Almost all of these fats get turned into energy for the body to use. And those that don’t are quickly excreted through the body’s waste system instead of being stored in fat cells.
We have to know to avoid the more common plants fats though such as corn, sunflower, safflower, canola and peanut oil as these are too high in the Omega 6’s and are not balanced enough to consume on a regular basis. Even though Omega 6 fatty acids are polyunsaturated fats and are considered to be healthy fats, too many of these can actually cause inflammation of the arterial walls. Americans consume too many of these fats in all of the highly processed foods we eat, and unfortunately this is all too true for our parrots as well. Again, we must know how to balance the good fats for our parrots in order for them to obtain the best possible health advantage. It’s not that we should stop feeding them fat; we just have to know how to feed the good fats in the right balance.
We need to know how to generally balance the good fats so that the proper amount of Omegas they contain are being fed (some species will require additional “good fats” added to their diet). In other words if we are feeding what seems to be good fats but they are heavy in the Omega 6’s, then we are adding to the problem of inflammatory illnesses, such as in the case of arterial plaques. But when we balance the Omegas as I have mentioned in a couple of my articles then the “good fats” actually help scrub the arterial walls of the bad plaque.
Americans have been told for far too long to avoid all fat. We have not been educated on the difference between good fat and bad fat. In fact researchers are now beginning to believe that a diet containing a good amount of healthy fats may not only stop Alzheimer’s, but actually reverse it, because as I mentioned above, our brain is 70% fat! Researchers now believe that a diet rich in Omegas help a person’s brain to process information faster and more efficiently. Researchers are now thinking that depression can be helped by the right kind of fats in a person’s diet. How much fat is a parrot’s brain? Do we even know? What if a parrot’s brain is 90% fat and we are holding back the very nutrient our parrots need to process their logic and emotions? Did you ever think why our parrots scream? What about the parrot who always seems depressed. Maybe it’s the lack of good, healthy fat. What if part of their plucking problem is actually behavioral because they can’t think properly due to the lack of the amount of good fat they need to process their thinking ability? And what about the nutrients in the good fat they need to grow and preen their feathers? It gives us a lot to think about doesn’t it?
The important thing to know and understand is that FLD is not always caused by too much fat in the diet, in fact FLD is usually a secondary disease caused by other underlying illnesses, syndromes, disorders and diseases and even malnutrition. In addition when it is caused by too much fat it’s usually caused by consuming the wrong kinds of fats, such as LCFAs, not by consuming the healthy fats such as the kind living creatures readily recognize as friendly and easy to metabolize, the MCFAs. We can’t just simply state that fats have to be limited across the board. We need a solid understanding of the different kinds of fats and how they work within a living creature’s system.
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Machelle Pacion / The BEST Bird Food / BirD-elicious! / Passion Tree House LLC © 2012 All Rights Reserved
*Information supplied by The BEST Bird Food or any of its contributors, associates, et al, does not intend to diagnose, treat or cure any symptom, illness or disease. Any information provided is strictly for the purpose of “sharing” resources. Should a reader decide to use any such information they do so at their own risk and holds author(s) and associates, et al, of The BEST Bird Food blog harmless in any and all legal matters concerning their health and the health of their family and/or friends and/or colleagues who they may share the information with as well as all of their pets and/or livestock whom they may practice the information upon.
Apple Cider Vinegar has been touted as one of Nature’s most reliable bird room cleaners for many, many years because it’s “natural” and doesn’t contain harmful chemicals, dyes, or preservatives. However if you have a companion feathered friend in your bird room that exhibits signs of feather plucking, skin mutilation or generalized picking you may want to re-evaluate your use of any kind of vinegar in your bird room, apple cider or otherwise.
There are a couple of reasons why vinegar or apple cider vinegar should not be used in a bird room where there are birds who suffer from the Mutilation Syndrome.
The first reason you may not want to use apple cider vinegar is that some birds may actually be allergic to apples. While this is highly uncommon, this allergy does exist and should be considered.
But the second reason is much more common and highly probable. Many living creatures are allergic to all fermented products. And all kinds of vinegar are fermented. It doesn’t matter which kind of vinegar you choose, white or apple cider, both are fermented. Fermentation requires the use of bacteria and yeast and some living creatures are highly allergic to one, or both of these. While, yes, apple cider vinegar is the healthier of the two types of vinegars, it still has to be fermented to be, well, vinegar. And living creatures that are extremely sensitive to certain substances will most likely be sensitive to apple cider vinegar as well, whether they ingest it or they just come into contact with it as an airborne substance.
You may wonder how I know this for sure. I’ve done my research. But first and foremost I know by my own experience. If you want to know how I know firsthand please read here. I first began noticing this when I would use apple cider vinegar to clean my own bird room. I would feel physically horrible soon after beginning the task at hand. I would begin to itch all over and not long into the process I would begin to develop a headache. It was then I began thinking about the couple of “pluckers” I had in my flock, wondering if the vinegar was affecting them the same way it was affecting me. I began to watch them closely after I cleaned their room and cages, bowls, etc. To my surprise I realized that they scratched more intensely after cleaning their room each time I cleaned! I knew I had to find a new product to clean their room, both for my own comfort as well as theirs!
But apple cider vinegar is not only a “histamine-causing” agent; it’s really not all that great to be feeding on a regular basis. I know there are those who believe in feeding vinegar in order to keep their bird’s system on the “alkaline” side, but if our birds are receiving enough greens in the way of herbs and grasses in their diet in the first place, their system will already be on the alkaline side of the PH range and they should not need additional support to make their systems lean towards the alkaline PH range. You see, apple cider vinegar has a tendency to deplete the body of potassium as well as create low bone mineral density because it depletes calcium from the bones. And excessive use of apple cider vinegar has shown to cause damage to the stomach, duodenum and the liver in animals. How much is too much? This is information we do not yet know.
By this time you may be asking, “What do I use instead of apple cider vinegar to clean my bird room, cages and all of the bowls and toys?” I have a very simple answer for you, grapefruit seed extract (GSE) diluted to the manufacturer’s directions. It is not a fermented product so you need not worry about it affecting highly sensitive individual birds that suffer from allergies. And if you buy a reliable brand there will be no dyes, chemicals or preservatives to worry about. I always purchase mine from Mountain Rose Herbs and I have had absolutely no problems with it since I started using it many years ago. I don’t itch when I use it and neither do my birds. And I have never found myself suffering a headache after using it. It has no scent and leaves no film. But you must dilute it according to manufacturer’s directions (a little goes a very long way).
Apple cider vinegar may be one of Nature’s miracles, but just because it’s “natural” doesn’t mean it’s good for all creatures. I found that out the hard way. Yes, GSE may be more expensive than ACV, but aren’t our beloved feathered friends worth the extra expense? Especially in the case of those that pluck, mutilate and pick? Isn’t their comfort just as important as ours? I think so. I hope you do too!
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*Information supplied by The BEST Bird Food or any of its contributors, associates, et al, does not intend to diagnose, treat or cure any symptom, illness or disease. Any information provided is strictly for the purpose of “sharing” resources. Should a reader decide to use any such information they do so at their own risk and holds author(s) and associates, et al, of The BEST Bird Food blog harmless in any and all legal matters concerning their health and the health of their family and/or friends and/or colleagues who they may share the information with as well as all of their pets and/or livestock whom they may practice the information upon.
Flax seed oil is touted as one of the best, if not the best dietary oil to consume to fight cardiovascular disease by raising the healthy HDL cholesterol levels over the lousy LDL cholesterol levels. I totally agree with this fact and here is why, flax seed oil is extremely high in Omega 3 fatty acids, the “heart-healthy fatty acids”.
Flax seed oil is also known as a “brain” food for the same reason, because it is high in Omega 3 fatty acids. Omega 3 fatty acids are found in high concentration in the brain and are responsible for memory, performance and behavioral function. They also help with vision and nerve relay. In addition Omega 3 fatty acids play an important part in maintaining mood levels.
Flax seed oil has been linked to preventing stress by calming the nerves, increasing energy and stamina, regulating blood sugar levels, easing inflamed tissues as with arthritis, and soothing dry skin as with eczema. It has also been known to help people who suffer with Attention Deficit Disorder (ADD).
But for the same reason flax seed oil is so wonderfully good for cardiovascular health, and all of these other health benefits, in my opinion it makes a poor oil to consume without adding other Omega oils along with it if your goal is to consume a healthy diet overall.
How can this be?
Flax seed oil lacks some of the qualities that help convert the Omega 6 fatty acids into another really great Omega fatty acid, “gamma-linolenic”, or more commonly known as GLA. This little wonder fatty acid actually scrubs the arteries of lousy LDL cholesterol therefore putting the Omega 6 fatty acids to work in a way that they normally would not work without being converted into GLA.
In addition flax seed oil does not contain enough Omega 7. Omega 7 is otherwise known as palmitoleic acid which helps to oxidize, or “burn” unused fat. This is of great importance to ensure that our birds do not become obese or develop fatty liver disease.
Don’t get me wrong, I absolutely love flax seed oil and believe it should be part of the overall “good fat” in our birds’ diet because it is uncommonly high in Omega 3 fatty acids. But in my opinion it should not be considered a “stand-alone” dietary oil. In my opinion, when feeding flax seed oil it should always be fed in partnership with hemp seed oil at the rate of 1.5 parts of hemp seed oil to 1 part of flax seed oil to ensure that our birds are receiving enough of the GLA and Omega 7 fatty acids in the hemp seed oil along with the Omega 3 fatty acids in flax seed oil.
*Mixing 1.5 parts of hemp seed oil to 1 part of flax seed oil you can use the same portions as an overall “total added fat intake” guideline as I presented in the hemp seed oil article for feeding your bird. However, using this recipe is optimum because it includes both hemp seed oil and flax seed oil and therefore provides a more balanced ratio of Omegas 3, 6, 7, 9 and GLA.:
“You can add it on top of their food. (Please DO NOT add this to their drinking water! It will only coagulate and cause a mess and if you don’t wash the water bowl out really, really well, it could go rancid.)
Just a drop for small Budgies once a day is more than enough. You can probably get away with giving only a drop every other day. For parakeets such as the Ringneck and similar size birds a drop or two daily will do. Moving on up to larger birds, say Conures, Pionus and the like, maybe 3 or 4 drops a day on top of their food. Then for African Greys, small Cockatoos (and even the small Macaws) and such, 5 drops to a 1/16th of a teaspoon a day. Larger Cockatoos you could give from 1/16th to 1/8th of a teaspoon a day depending on skin and feather quality. Then the large Macaws you can give 1/8th to ¼ teaspoon daily depending on skin and feather quality.”
If your bird is suffering from “The Mutilation Syndrome” it may partially be because these essential fatty acids are lacking in your bird’s diet. Please keep in mind the above recommendations are only a guideline and depend on the overall health and vitality of your individual bird. Obviously if your bird is suffering from a health problem you need to consult with your licensed avian veterinarian before adding any additional oils to your bird’s diet. And if you know you bird already suffers from fatty liver disease, do not increase your bird’s intake of these fatty acids without first consulting with your licensed avian veterinarian.
A combination of hemp seed oil with flax seed oil on a regular basis, and then adding palm oil once a week should provide the dietary fat our birds need, especially if they are also receiving nuts every now and then. Coconut oil can be used on occasion for very specific reasons, or for certain species. It’s important to remember that in the wild our birds would be consuming these healthy fats on a regular basis; their systems are designed to metabolize these healthy plant fats.
Harmful fats, like long-chain animal fats from meat and dairy, have no place in our birds’ diet for the most part. These are the kind of fats that cause a buildup of cholesterol. Hydrogenated and trans-fats from industrial oils are extremely harmful for our birds, they come from highly processed foods. These are the kind of fats that will lead to cardiovascular problems, obesity and fatty liver disease because our birds’ systems cannot process these fats and utilize them.
But we must remember that these “good fats” are medium-chain “plant” fats and are therefore easier for the body to recognize as useable, digestible and easy to metabolize fats, they actually help reduce cholesterol in most cases. These are the kind of fats that give our birds energy, help their heart to pump blood, help their brain to function, provide lubrication for joints, aid in maintaining good eye sight and help to create beautiful feathers and supple skin. Without enough “good fat” in our birds’ diet every function of their body is going to suffer. You can learn lots more about “good fats” and the role they play in our diet as well as our birds’ diets in our series on “Dietary Fat: An Overview for Companion Birds“.
*Dieatary Fat during mating/breeding season: I have found the use of flax seed oil during mating/breeding season to be of wonderful use in calming the emotions of hormonal birds. The Omega 3′s in flax seed oil have a calming effect on the hormones in the brain that control the emotions. But during the mating/breeding season I highly recommend discontinuing the use of hemp seed and hemp seed oil completely. In some extreme cases flax seed/flax seed oil must be discontinued as well. But in most cases flax seed oil, because of its high content of Omega 3, is actually somewhat beneficial because of its overall calming effect. However, if you find that your bird is too sensitive to both hemp and flax seed oil during this hormonal time, discontinue the use and use only Coconut oil as it does not contain any properties that will antagonize hormones. You may find that even Palm Oil antagonizes hormones during this hormonal time of your bird’s cycle. Watch your bird carefully when feeding dietary oils during its hormonal cycle for any additional aggressive or emotional behaviors and discontinue the use of the oils if necessary.
*If at any time you begin to see black spots on your bird’s feathers, you may be feeding too much oil or fat to your bird, (Or this may be a sign of “Iron Storage Disease”) back off and consult your licensed avian veterinarian. You may need to have your bird’s blood lipid and lipoprotein panel checked and/or checked for fatty liver disease and/or place your bird on a liver detox regimen.
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*Information supplied by The BEST Bird Food or any of its contributors, associates, et al, does not intend to diagnose, treat or cure any symptom, illness or disease. Any information provided is strictly for the purpose of “sharing” resources. Should a reader decide to use any such information they do so at their own risk and holds author(s) and associates, et al, of The BEST Bird Food blog harmless in any and all legal matters concerning their health and the health of their family and/or friends and/or colleagues who they may share the information with as well as all of their pets and/or livestock whom they may practice the information upon.
In part 1 of “Dietary Fat: An Overview for Companion Birds”, we discussed the two classifications of fats, the “saturation” and the way fats are “structured”, by molecular carbon chains. We discovered that polyunsaturated and monounsaturated fats are basically healthy fats more so than saturated fats, except in the case of saturated plant fats that are made up of medium chains. This specific group of medium chain saturated fats is unique to plant fats; saturated animal fats are made up of long chains and therefore are not healthy saturated fats. Medium chain fats are compatible with a living body and therefore are considered to be a heart healthy fat in spite of the fact they are saturated.
Seed and nut fats are made of medium chains and are therefore recognizable by the living body as compatible fats in which to metabolize and turn into quick energy sources. Whereas animal fats take a longer period of time to digest, metabolize and finally turn into an energy source a living body can utilize. More often than not animal fat actually turns into fat on a living body, but seed and nut fat normally do not when fed in moderation, they actually get utilized as energy and what doesn’t get utilized as energy gets utilized to clean out the “lousy” LDL cholesterol running through the arteries.
Knowing this very important information helps us to understand that “fat” can be a really good nutritional support to add to our companion bird’s diet. In fact, it is a vital part of an exotic bird’s total and complete nutritional profile. Having discovered this we are now ready to discuss some of the various nutritional seed, oils and nuts we have available to us to include in our companion bird’s diet!
Beneficial “Fatty Acid” Seed and Oils
I have previously only briefly touched on some of the best kinds of seed and oils to add to our companion birds’ diets to achieve the best “fatty acid” nutrition. Let’s go into a little more detail.
Seed
Unfortunately seed has gotten a really bad reputation because in the past so many people fed a diet strictly of seed for so many years resulting in under-nourished or mal-nourished birds. But there is a healthy place for seed in a companion bird’s overall, balanced diet.
When we are diligent in feeding a diet rich in whole foods consisting of a large variety of greens, fruits, berries, nuts, herbs and other wholesome foods, seed can play a vital role in the overall nutritional profile of a bird’s total diet.
Seed contains some of the essential fatty acids we have discussed, but it’s important to know which variety of seed is the healthiest seed to feed.
Hemp Seed / Oil
First of all let’s take a deeper look into hemp seed and hemp seed oil because I mentioned it several times in previous sections.
Hemp seed and the oil derived from it contain probably the most balanced fatty acid that can be easily obtained. It contains all of the fatty acids that are beneficial to the health and well-being of our parrots. It contains, depending on the variety, approximately 21% Omega 3, 2-3% GLA (no other of the common oils contain this fatty acid), about 56% other Omega 6’s, and about 11% Omega 9, about .12% of Omega 7 and finally about 9.7% of the saturated fats. Hemp is one of the rare seeds to contain Omega 7, Palmitoleic acid which actually helps in the burning off of excess fat.
In my opinion, if you feed no other oil, this is the best oil by far to feed your companion bird to ensure good health overall.
You can read a more in depth post here: Hemp Seed Oil
Flax Seed / Oil
Secondly, flax seed is very high in Omega 3, that fatty acid known for its heart health properties.
Many people tout this source of fatty acid over any other because it is so high in Omega 3 helping to balance the high amount of Omega 6’s we normally over-consume in our American diet, and this is a good thing. However, flax seed does not contain any GLA like hemp seed does.
Flax seed contains almost 60% Omega 3, about 14% Omega 6, about 16% Omega 9 and 10% saturated fats. But because it does not contain GLA, I would not recommend feeding this oil as a “stand-alone” oil.
Safflower Seed
I am convinced that we need to be adding safflower seed to our companion birds’ diets. Typically it contains at least 14% Oleic acid, Omega 9. This makes it a heart healthy fatty acid seed and one that should not be avoided in our companion birds’ diet. It also contains about 4% Palmitic acid, a fairly healthy saturated plant fat our birds need for the production of supple skin, beautiful feathers and strong beaks and talons. It’s also good for our birds because it contains a high amount of Folic acid, naturally occurring vitamin A and a fair amount of vitamin E.
This seed should not be a stand-alone seed; this should be fed in conjunction with other seed.
I do not recommend adding safflower oil to our birds’ diet. Too many times safflower oil is processed as a hydrogenated oil. We have previously discussed hydrogenated oils; they are industrial oils used in highly processed foods and are almost impossible to break down in the metabolic system leaving arteries clogged. Just to make absolutely sure we are not feeding a hydrogenated version of safflower oil to our birds, in my opinion it’s just best to stick to safflower seed and stay away from the processed oil.
Saturated Plant Oils
Some fatty acids must be derived from saturated plant oils. You can feed the actual fruit when you can find it, most of the time it’s just more convenient to find the oil in a virgin, unrefined, cold-pressed version. As previously discussed saturated plant fats are not the same as saturated animal fats, these plant fats have medium chain carbon bonds (MCFAs) and the body recognizes them as something that can be easily metabolized. So there is no worry about build up in the arteries like there is with animal fats, actually these fats are very healthy and can help lower the “lousy” LDL cholesterols, especially when saturated fats are combined with naturally occurring Oleic acid, Omega 9, they are extremely efficient in reducing the harmful cholesterols. Both Palm oil and Coconut oil contain enough Oleic acid to make them heart healthy oils.
Palm Oil
Let’s not confuse this with “palm kernel oil”.
The two are not the same and palm kernel oil should not be fed to our companion birds.
Palm oil is a rich, orange-red oil known mainly as a “saturated” oil. It contains about 50% saturated fats, and about 50% unsaturated fats: 1% Omega 3’s, and 11% Omega 6’s. Palm oil is high in Oleic acid, Omega 9, 38%.
One of its greatest properties it offers our birds is the beta-carotene, the precursor to vitamin A. Beta-carotene is easily converted to vitamin A by natural synthesizes in a bird’s body. And just briefly, the importance of vitamin A in our birds’ diets are: Overall vitality, healthy immune system, healthy digestive tract, healthy respiratory tract, healthy reproductive system, strong skeletal structure, supple skin, vibrant feathers, good eyesight.
You can read a more in depth post here: Palm Fruit Oil
Coconut Oil
Coconut oil is about 92% saturated fat containing about 5-7% Oleic acid, Omega 9.
Coconut Oil supplies its very own very special properties that need to be looked at for purposes that may arise from time to time with your bird. It contains Caprylic and Lauric acids, both efficient in treating yeast infections. Coconut Oil is also known to level out blood sugar in the case of insulin resistance in Type 2 Diabetes. It is also a good source of vitamin E so it helps condition and protects the skin as well as healing minor cuts, abrasions and minor wounds. It has been known to help prevent macular degeneration of the eyes as well. There are many, many uses for Coconut Oil, too many to list. I suggest you turn to the Internet and conduct your own search regarding the healing properties of Coconut Oil.
You can read a more in depth post here: Coconut Oil
Beneficial “Fatty Acid” Nuts
Nuts are extremely high in Oleic acid, Omega 9 which as previously stated, is responsible for lowering the overall “lousy” LDL cholesterols and raising the overall “healthy” HDL good cholesterols. Just about any nut you decide to feed is going to contain a fair to high amount of Omega 9 and there are a vast array of nuts from which to choose to feed our companion birds.
Macadamia nuts are an excellent source of Omega 9 and they contain Omega 7 as well, the fat-burning Omega. But on a regular basis I prefer to feed almonds because they contain a moderate amount of Omega 9 plus they are very high in calcium, a mineral that almost every companion bird needs in their daily diet and almonds contain a good amount of protein too. Basically they are just a good all around nut if you are not going to feed any other nut. But just like any food, feed in moderation, too much of a good thing can be harmful. Almonds are a tad high in the amino acid Arginine and anyone following my blog will know that I highly suspect Arginine to be a contributing factor in The Mutilation Syndrome. However, I do like to feed Macadamia nuts on an infrequent basis just to make sure that great beta-carotene and Omega 7 nutrition is being derived from such a wonderful whole food source.
I never feed peanuts because they are so susceptible to aflatoxins. In my opinion it’s just not worth the risk.
Fats: In Conclusion
After our study of fats we have learned that healthy fats not only provide energy, they carry oxygen to the blood, they also nourish the brain, help prevent certain cancers, lubricate the body inside and out as in the case of preventing arthritis and also aid in keeping the skin moist and supple. Fats also help with the uptake of calcium thereby preventing osteoporosis. Certain fats can aid in the treatment of diabetes and other fats can help keep eyesight sharp by preventing macular degeneration and in some cases fat can also act as an antiviral, antifungal or an antibacterial and aid in destroying yeast infections, heal cuts and minor wounds. In short, fats are nothing but miraculous in many ways and should be a staple in our companion birds’ diet for optimum nutrition!
We shouldn’t be so worried about feeding “fat” to our birds, as long as it’s healthy fat. There has been far too much negative talk about fat in our birds’ diets in my opinion. For some reason the common thinking is that all fat translates into “fat birds” and this is just not true. These birds come from regions of the world where there is an abundance of healthy fats from which to choose and consume, and they do consume these fats in the wild; these fats are part of their normal diet and they need these fats to thrive. Obviously they don’t need as much fat living more sedentary lives as captive birds, but they still need a good amount for their bodies to function properly.
Take a good, long look at your bird’s diet and if necessary make changes to include the healthy fats your bird needs to thrive. Don’t be fearful that your bird will become obese simply because you are feeding your bird what its body is designed to consume. As long as your bird is receiving lots of fresh, wholesome greens, fruits, berries and herbs, then adding some quality nuts and seed to the diet will not harm your bird in any way. In fact your bird will be a lot better off with the added “good fat” in its diet!
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Pre-Classification and Purpose of Fats
Fats fall under a wider category known as “lipids”.
Lipids
Lipids are natural organic compounds and are not water soluble; they are fat, lipid and oil soluble. Lipids include fats, phospholipids and steroids. Fats are necessary for energy, to store energy, insulate the body, and cushion and protect the organs. Phospholipids are a major component of cell membranes, they are found virtually lining every cell in the body, especially the brain, protecting each cell. They help brain cells communicate and influence how well receptors function. Steroids are cholesterol derived hormones that help regulate various physiological functions in the body.
For the purpose of our edification we will be focusing primarily on “fats” mainly in the form of “fatty acids”, the building blocks of total fats, and the function they play in the health of our companion birds.
Fats are used inside of living creatures for many things, but one of the main purposes of these necessary nutrients is for the production of energy the body will utilize in daily activities. Therefore it is absolutely crucial that high quality fats are available to a living creature, fats that can be quickly absorbed, metabolized and exchanged into energy so that a living creature has plenty of energy in which to expend throughout each and every day. Such is the case for birds living in the wild that may need to escape quickly from any approaching predators.
But what about the fat requirements of companion birds, what are the kinds of fats our birds need? What are the best sources of food from which to derive these fats? Is it important to know how much fat our companion bird should consume each and every day?
In some ways it’s more important to discuss the classifications of fats and their molecular structure so you will have a good understanding of what constitutes a healthy fat. Once you understand what constitutes a healthy fat, it becomes much easier to choose sources of healthy fats for your companion bird to consume. And in knowing what the purpose of fats are in the diet, then we don’t have to worry as much about the total intake of fats, because we will know that the right fats, fed for the right purpose in moderation will not make our birds fat, but will supply the necessary nutrients exotic birds need to thrive.
The Two Classifications of Fats
There are two ways to classify fats, one is by saturation, the other is by the length or molecular size of the carbon chain, or how they are connected to one another.
Let’s review saturation first.
Saturation
There are mainly polyunsaturated, monounsaturated, saturated, trans-fats, and hydrogenated fats.
First there are the polyunsaturated fats (PUFAS). These are extremely healthy fats which make up the fatty acids known as “Omega 3” fats. One of the best sources for this fatty acid for our companion birds can be found in flax seed and flax seed oil, although hemp seed and hemp seed oil supplies a good amount of this fatty acid as well.
Secondly there are the monounsaturated fats (MUFAS). These are basically healthy fats which make up the fatty acids known as “Omega 6” fats; they are mostly vegetable fats and are found in abundance in almost all of the highly processed foods we consume. They are commonly derived from corn, safflower seed, peanuts and olives. While they are mostly healthy, when eaten in overabundance they can actually add to the problem of cardiovascular problems and chronic pain by causing more inflammation unless the “GLA” (Gamma-linolenic acid) version is consumed. The “GLA” version is derived primarily from hemp seed; this is the only seed besides borage, black currant seed, and evening primrose that contains GLA.
Then there are the saturated fats. These are normally animal fats, but not always. There are healthy plants, nuts and seed that contain saturated fats.
And finally there are trans-fats and hydrogenated fats. Some trans-fats occur naturally in some foods. But most trans-fats and hydrogenated fats are industrial or synthetically produced fats for use in highly processed foods. A living creature cannot break these fats down into useable energy and they clog the arteries, never, never use these kinds of fats in your bird’s diet.
The Molecular Carbon Chain Structure of Fatty Acids
Now let’s review how fats are structured. Fats are made of chains of “fatty acids”. Fatty acids consist of chains of carbon atoms with hydrogen atoms attached.
There are short (SCFA), medium (MCFA) and long (LCFA) chain fatty acids. Most of the foods we consume are made up of the LCFAs. MCFAs also contain the medium-chain triglycerides known as MCTs. MCFAs are probably the best fatty acids to consume because a living creature recognizes fat molecules by their size and MCFAs are recognized as compatible to a living creature and therefore are metabolized more efficiently than SCFAs and LCFAs. This is actually more important to remember than the classification by “saturation” of any given fat because while a fat may be considered to be unhealthy by the “saturation” standard, it may actually be considered healthy when measured by the molecular size of the chain, that is if it is a medium chain fatty acid (MCFA).
I wish to include a short quote by Dr. Bruce Fife, ND. I believe this is one of the best explanations of how MCTs “work” in a living body:
“MCTs are processed differently. When we eat a fat containing MCTs, such as coconut oil, it travels through the stomach and into the small intestine. But since MCTs digest quickly, by the time they leave the stomach and enter the intestinal tract they are already broken down into individual fatty acids (MCFAs). Therefore, they do not need pancreatic enzymes or bile for digestion. Since they are already reduced to fatty acids as they enter the small intestine, they are immediately absorbed into the portal vein and sent straight to the liver. In the liver they are preferentially used as a source of fuel to produce energy. MCFAs bypass the lipoprotein stage in the intestinal wall and in the liver. They do not circulate in the bloodstream to the degree that other fats do. Therefore, they do not supply the fat that collects in fat cells nor do they supply the fat that collects in artery walls. MCFAs are used to produce energy, not body fat and not arterial plaque.”
(You can read Dr. Fife’s complete article at OfSpirit.com)
Categories of Fatty Acids
There are two main categories of fatty acids, both “essential and non-essential fatty acids”, in other words, “essential and conditionally essential” fatty acids that a living creature really needs to perform at its best.
The term “essential” fatty acid refers to what a living creature needs to ingest as a required food source because it cannot synthesize the nutrient without introducing it by an exogenous source, that is, a source outside of itself.
The term “non-essential” fatty acid means that a living creature does not need the substance introduced by a food source because it is synthesized by the body either naturally or by food that has previously been introduced and metabolized by the body.
The essential fatty acids are “Alpha-linolenic” (ALA) or Omega 3 and “Linolenic” (LA) or Omega 6. Normally Omega 6 fatty acids are widely available through food sources, too available in fact. We have to work a little harder to find food sources that contain Omega 3 fatty acids.
Then there are “non-essential fatty acids” like Gamma-linolenic acid (GLA) a special Omega 6 fatty acid that is metabolized from Linoleic acid another Omega 6 fatty acid, Lauric acid (a saturated fatty acid), and Palmitoleic acid (a monounsaturated fatty acid), classified as Omega 7, found in extremely high concentration in Macadamia nuts. And finally, one Omega that isn’t talked about very much but is very important in my opinion is Omega 9, or Oleic acid. It is considered one of the “non-essential” fatty acids too, but because it has such important nutritional properties I think it is still a good idea to find a good food source and introduce it into our birds’ diet.
Omega 3
The purpose of Omega 3 is heart health and good brain function. It also helps with the condition of skin, balancing emotions and providing energy to the body. Studies have shown that Omega 3 actually lowers total cholesterol and triglycerides overall, thus reducing the risk of heart-related diseases. Studies have indicated that Omega 3 has decreased the symptoms of Rheumatoid arthritis and Lupus. And research has shown that calcium absorption improves with the intake of Omega 3, thus preventing the onset of Osteoporosis. Macular degeneration is less likely to occur when Omega 3 is consumed on a regular basis. And cancers like breast, colon and prostate cancer are less likely to occur when a diet rich in Omega 3 is consumed.
One of the best sources of Omega 3 is organic flax seed and organic flax seed oil as well as organic hemp seed and organic hemp seed oil.
Omega 6
The purpose of Omega 6 is to stimulate skin and feather growth (hair growth in humans), maintain bone health, regulate metabolism and maintain the reproductive system.
Not all Omega 6’s are equal. The “Linoleic” (LA), Omega 6’s have shown to actually cause more damage to the body when consumed in large quantities; they actually increase additional pain and inflammation as in the case of chronic pain syndromes as well as additional cardiovascular problems for heart patients. This is because the American diet consists of so many foods that are too high in Omega 6’s actually cancelling out the benefits of any of the Omega 3’s in a person’s diet.
However, if a diet that is high in the Omega 6, Gamma-linoleic acid, otherwise known as “GLA”, is consumed this is a different matter. GLA is responsible for actually contributing to lowering the total cholesterol level thus contributing to good heart health. GLA is also responsible for reducing inflammation.
The best sources of GLA Omega fatty acids for our birds’ diets are organic hemp seed and organic hemp seed oil.
Omega 7
It is believed that Palmitoleic acid, Omega 7, plays a significant role in fat oxidation. If so this is vitally important not only in preventing obesity, but also in the production of energy. As previously stated palmitoleic acid is abundant in macadamia nuts.
Omega 9
Oleic acid, Omega 9, is one of the “non-essential” fatty acids, meaning that living bodies synthesize it so food sources do not need to be introduced to metabolize it. However, just as a precaution it may be a good idea to introduce some food sources to make sure this fatty acid is present in the body because it is so important to have available. It’s responsible for lowering overall “lousy” LDL cholesterols and increasing the “healthy” HDL cholesterols.
Foods that are high in Oleic acid are grape seed oil, nuts and seeds. One of the best dietary sources for our companion birds is organic hemp seed and organic hemp seed oil.
How Much Fat Should We Feed To Our Birds?
After years and years of research surrounding wild and captive parrots there is still much debate as to the amount of fat content each species needs in their diet to maintain homeostasis, balanced health and vitality. Obviously a wild parrot will need a higher fat content than a captive parrot simply because of the amount of energy expended. Having stated that fact, we must keep in mind that the quality of fat in a bird’s diet is just as important as the amount of fat in a bird’s diet, all parrots need quality fats in their diets because this is one of the prime nutrients their species thrives upon. Even though a captive parrot may need less in their diet than a wild parrot, they still need quality fats.
We know from our research for human diets that Omega 3 fats are overall healthier than the Omega 6 fats. Therefore we want to make sure we begin by adding foodstuffs that contain these kinds of fats to the base diet for parrots. These would include foods such as leafy greens, nuts and a moderate amount of high-quality seed. We need to be careful how many grains we feed to our birds because grains are high in the Omega 6 fats, and not the good Omega 6’s like the GLA’s. While yes, all of the Omega 6’s are needed in the diet, as previously stated, a diet too high in the Omega 6’s will cancel out the good of the Omega 3’s, therefore we really need to exercise caution in feeding too many grains like corn, wheat, oats, barley, rye and millet.
When we take all of these fats into consideration, it’s no wonder that parrots need to consume a fair amount of quality fats. They need to take in a quantity of fat for energy anyway, and they need to take in enough to cover all of the fatty acids listed here to cover all of their dietary needs.
Remember these are polyunsaturated and monounsaturated fats, the good fats. It’s when we feed high amounts of saturated fats (a small amount of saturated fats are good, like the kind found in nuts), or any amount of trans-fats or hydrogenated fats (never, never feed Trans fats or hydrogenated fats) that we have worries attached.
Our post here is just a short post, it doesn’t even begin to cover the broader aspect of dietary fats and what foods to feed to ensure you are feeding the best fats possible to your feathered friend. Please stay tuned for Part 2 of “Dietary Fat-An Overview for Companion Birds“. In addition, I will be going into depth about dietary fats in the book I am writing about companion bird nutrition.
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